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I think the frame rails are the same standard 34" apart that most trucks are, so I would think it would fit. I've been up under my buddy's. The engine and trans aren't huge, but the T-case is.
Interesting you discovered the T case overdrive...
Didn't some of the Cummins trucks pull/suck the fuel from the tank and later pumps push with an in-tank pump, like the deuce? Seems like vacuum is an issue...
I emailed FASS and asked about making my own tee vs. buying theirs and got a rude reply, but there are a couple nuggets in this article. Dirty fuel filters don't just starve your engine for fuel, they cause it to suck air, which is probably the cause of a lot of the bucking and surging, etc...
Diesel trucks as built seem to work fine...but it seems they can work a little better. I wouldn't spend several hundred dollars to buy a kit to remove air, but if I can do it myself on the cheap, it would be a fun and interesting project.
I read somewhere that diesel engines and components...
My dad is up around there and is very mechanically inclined/experienced if you need help or just somebody familiar with the area parts houses, etc. He rebuilt MVs when I was a kid.
I have no intention of buying expensive filters...I dont think that's the key, it's the .020"-.040" bleeder orifice into the return line. I can make that myself with a tee, etc.
Hopefully just drive shaft flange bolts or a ujoint. It may be the trans output bearing or the one right below it. Either can be changed with the trans in the truck. I just went though something similar, changed the lower, still makes noise on/off throttle like yours and the main shaft drifts...
Large pockets cause problems and damage, but according to what I've read, the injectors should last longer, work better, and engine run better if the tiny entrained bubbles are removed. Author of above article says it's best done with a small orifice in the top of the line just before injection.