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Most likely your fuel filter is clogged from sucking junk off the bottom of tank. Less likely is that you've still got air in the fuel line. Is it an A1 or A2?
It's the lowest common denominator principle. 99.9% of veterans (and American citizens) can be trusted with weaponry, armor, etc., etc. Unfortunately the .01% that can not be trusted results in everyone being punished.
There was something similar for sale on GL out of Hawaii a year ago or so. I believe it was a training rig for drivers of the MRAPs. I think it only had two front and a rear exit door but it had numerous jump out seats inside.
Unless you have ample time, money, and mechanical ability that looks like it would make a better donor rig, so others can complete their restoration, than it does a resto' project. That's just my 2 cents..
It's pretty much a plug and play replacement. Check the TMs for torque specs on the mounting bolts. If I remember correctly there's a thin gasket that mounts between the compressor and block you'll more than likely need to replace. Other than that it's a pretty strait forward replacement...
The MK19 was neat, when it would work. It's rounds didn't penetrate very well and the ever present "grit" in Iraq caused constant malfunctions. Plus the nature of the MK19 makes it ill suited for targeting a select individual, its more suited for targeting a general area. The talcum powder...
The MK19 was trash over there. I recommend .50 primary with M240 seconday weapon setup. We ran that setup on our number 2 and 3 vehicles and it took care of businesses.
The key is making sufficient reinforcement on the gator to handle the .50 cal recoil. Even on a semi auto (civilian) .50 the recoil is significant. On full auto the recoil will rip stuff to shreds and make believers out of whoever it's shooting at...
Chaining up the rear axle does reduce the turning radius slightly, but not much. I've seen it done, on a farm truck, with the rear tires and driveshaft removed. Kinda' like a redneck bobbed 5 ton. With that being said, I wouldn't take it on a road anywhere.
I'm looking to do the same thing, with my M932 tractor. My trailer is a little older so it doesn't have ABS. My plan was to run 12V, via a 24V to 12V stepdown, to an in cab brake controller. From there power would run from the brake controller to the trailer brakes. I'm not sure if the newer...
That's exactly what I'm looking to do. What did you do to receive a 12V electrical signal, to the brake controller, for when the brakes are activated? I was looking to tap into the 24V coming from the brake pedal and stepping it down to 12V.
Did you use the 12V/24V LEDs or just go with the...
Found the schematic for the trailer lights. Looks like 22-460 and 22-461 run both the turn signals and their respective brake light, instead of a single wire running both brake lights. Standard military redundancy....