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A M939 muffler leaking at the bottom is a serious safety issue. My muffler leaked at the bottom, like most that rust out from rain water collecting in the muffler do. This allowed hot exhaust gas to escape downward directly onto the bank of airlines for the air tank bleeders. This resulted in...
Thanks. I was 99% sure it wouldn't damage anything, unless engaged, but I didn't want to spend a bunch of time and money, replacing the PTO, just to find out.
For my tructor modification I had to drain and remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir, for the winch on my M932. I'm just looking for confirmation that it will not cause any damage to run the truck with the hydraulic system unhooked. I've got the intake and return lines covered, where they come...
Also not a bad idea to replace the fuel filters while your at it. There's a permenant thread with the NAPA and civilian filter numbers listed for the M809's.
I just charge the air system, off the emergency air line, using an "air pig" or the shop system and check for leaks. Turns out it was the compressor that was the issue. I sucked it up and bought this remanufactured compressor from NAPA. With the new compressor installed the outlet air line is...
I charged the system from a secondary compressor and it held steady for well over 10 minutes so there's no leaks there. After tinkering with it some more I'm leaning heavily towards the compressor being the issue. The TM doesn't do a phenominal job in the trouble shooting portion for this...
Yeah I think the purge valve at the bottom of the air dryer is acting up, that's why I tested the pressure before it. It's just weird that it builds right up to 30 psi and then just stops.
I picked up a M932A2, from Camp Shelby, and initially there were no problems. Just recently the air pressure dropped to 30psi on the primary tank. Now when I start it up the air pressure builds to 20-30 psi and just holds there. I checked the pressure with a gauge at the air line just before...
My 932a2's VIN is higher up on the frame than Suprman's but in the same general location, on the driver side frame rail. It matches the "vehicle serial number" listed on the data plate on dash.
Yes to the red button for priming. If I remember correctly the bolt highlighted is 8mm and when opened facilitates priming. Only half to one turn should do it on bolt. Too much and it falls out.
That's a very generous offer and I truely appreciate it. I'm hoping to have the logistics squared away in the timeframe needed but it would be great having a fall back plan if all else fails.
I'm looking at moving an M818 from Greenbriar, Arkansas to Marianna, Floridia (It's in the panhandle, north of Panama City) over the next few weeks. It's 637 miles. It's unknown if the M818 runs. There is a loading ramp and tug at Greenbriar, AR. Thanks.
The short answer is no. The old style feet are about 1/8" too thick to fit in the ibis tek tow bar and the ibis tek tow bar pin hole, for the tow feet, is about 1/16" too small for the old style 1" pin. If you use the Ibis tek tow bar pin you won't have to drill anything but it will be rattle...
Most the off roaders are switching away from the boggers to XML and XZL for a reason. Less expensive, longer life, higher load carrying capacity, more puncture resistant. I've run super swamppers for over 15 years and the XML are far superior on and off road. Just my 2 cents.
That's actually in pretty good shape (better than mine) especially for the age and being up north. The bent rear cross member is an easy fix. I'd probably just get a new piece of C channel cut and bolt it in. I'm sure Recvry4X4 will chime in before too long as he is very knowledgable on this...