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If I recall from my Jeep days; the distributor shares the shaft that drives the oil pump and I seem to think that the slot is offset to prevent the distributor from being installed 180 degrees out. If I'm right so far then it wouldn't run at all if the plug wires weren't on the correct plugs...

First of all, what are you working on? It makes life easier if the plug wires in the cap go to the correct plugs. Otherwise, come tune-up time, you'll never get the timing marks to line up.

If the following sounds angry, I apologize in advance. We've just lost a member to an accident which may well have been prevented if other drivers had been paying attention to what they were doing. All of the videos and pictures are of systems designed for single vehicle, slow speed rollovers...

I talked to the techs at one of the larger air-to-air cooler manufacturers and their take on things was that the turbo stuffed air in so fast that the intercooler added no measurable lag time or pressure drop. The only exception would be an intercooler that's too small to provide ample air flow...

This will make removing them a lot easier. Shear off the head on one side with your tool of choice; cold chisel, 4" angle grinder w/ .040" "cut-off disc, torch if you're good enough to keep from gouging the frame. Once the head is removed, center punch the rivet shank and drill out the center...

Not sure of proper nomenclature myself. They're usually associated with armor. The "T" end is for a cable eye when recovering a tank or APC. Also sometimes used for tying down on a flatcar when shipping by rail. A search in that direction might bring you better results.

Yellowish doesn't ring a bell here. Honey-colored and cloudy is often oil with water mixed in (emulsified). Attached is the TB on oils and fuels. It doesn't say much about civilian or brand names but it's good information just the same.

The biggest complaint against fusible links is that they aren't readily detectable as good or bad... and that's if you know they're there. If you're not expecting them, they can be a real nightmare. Also, they're usually wired in (not quick change) and how many of us carry a spool of fusible...

Will, Based on the size description alone, it sounds like an older unit. Probably obsolete and so OK(?) to own. Some of this stuff does make it to the civilian market intact; although I'd give the current-issue stuff like PLGRs a wide berth. Nobody needs the headaches "liberated" brings along...

If you want to stay subtle and make sure they don't attract attention from the wrong crowd (horn-nappers); what about under the bed between the bed's frame rails? I guarantee you won't noticably muffle their output by not having them out in the open. FRA regs. say locomotive horns should have...

The Vickers pump mounts to the back of the Bendix TuFlow 550 compressor on my Cummins 6BT. I'd think something similar could work on a deuce air compressor.

Rick, everything is available and is off an M-800 series. The stock configuration HF 54 box will work for conventional cabs. What messed me up was the baby HEMTT''s steering shaft coming in from the front like a cab-over. That required having a box custom built but it was a one time expense as...

Gimpy, yeah it's a 5 ton set-up (M-800 series) but the box was definately an HF 54. That fact is burned into my brain from dragging it around and all the contortions I had to go through trying to get it to work on the baby HEMTT. It eventually was used as a core for the HF64 I ended up installing.

I have an HF54 and like it. Mine (all?) has the aux. valving to drive an assist ram on the pass. side so the box and it's single pitman arm don't have to shove both front tires around. You'll have to build a bracket to mount the box as it's larger than a stock deuce steering box and crowds up...

Most body shops have spot welding set-ups that attach a stud which can then be pulled to straighten out dents and dimples. How do you feel about welding up small holes in the tank? You can make a "plate" out of 3/8" steel or even a 2 X 6 long enough to bridge from the end of the tank to about...

Aluminum work hardens pretty fast so I don't think welding leads are made of that. You say that your welder was used as a power source though. If it was set in place, wired in, and wasn't intended to be moved around; then aluminum for power transmission is a likely choice. Go for copper for...

If you can get at them and keep your drill motor straight and centered, drilling out the studs with increasing size left-handed drill bits is a good suggestion. At some point the broken stud will lose it's grip on the threads, the left-handed bit will snag and unscrew the stud as it turns...

From personal experience in the shop and at home with the baby HEMTT, here are some tricks I've found work every time: Mag drills like to be attached to thick metal. If you're drilling 1/4" or thinner, back up the piece with a 1/2" thick piece of plate (no need to weld in place, just so the...

Ran across this picture and wanted to share. Not sure any of these still exist but once upon a time there were a whole bunch of them at McClellan AFB here in Sacramento. They were stationed here because McClellan was the home for both the XC-99s and the B-36s in the early '50s.

These are the two styles I'm familiar with. The stepped one is fairly common; check ebay. The green one is out there but you really have to beat the bushes for them.