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WOW! That is a "different" MV green, it really "pops"!

Looks good! Yes, the correct wire is important. I have tried to make all my wiring additions look like they were done in the Motorpool...That sounded good until I read it back to myself! Motorpool work?? :)

OD, Are you going to use Mil-Spec wire and connections to connect everything up? Here is a good source should you want to stay Mil-Spec. http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/prwiformive1.html http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/coandte.html

Are you holding the starter switch on until after you get good oil pressure? Sometimes you have to leave it in this position for a few seconds after oil pressure maxes out. I know it goes against everything we were ever taught, like the moment the motor starts to let go of the switch.

Auxiliary mode is for drawing fuel from a source other than the onboard daytank. The TM should explain the different fueling sources. Do you have a digital volt meter? I would check for voltage where the power wire connects to the pump for the daytank.

Not to be confused with WFO = wide "full" open. ;)

When I installed my 003 in my 105 trailer, I set it for about 10% (about 140 pounds) of the genset weight on the front landing leg. As long as the trailer is attached to the truck, or the rear landing leg is down, I can drop the tailgate and get into the trailer without it tipping back.

Good catch Porkysplace! Here's the other end of the cord. They pivot enough to shine on the rear axles for nighttime wheel work, and into the engine compartment for repairs.

Will these help you?

Neither, I was trying to normally start the truck, a fluke thing I guess. Just trying to make the point the motor will run backwards.

Never a good ideal to leave a multi-fuel parked in gear. Using the parking brake and wheel chocks also help to prevent a "bump & run". And yes, a multi-fuel will run backwards, I accidentally did this years ago. I about pooped when I figured out what was going on.

The truck fuel tank should be bonded through the nozzle and hose back to the fuel dispenser, right?

I was a 64C30 Motor Transport Operator (88M now) and one of those "18/19 year old punks" you're referring to. Let me make this clear: There may have been some isolated vehicle abuses, but it was the exception and definitely not the rule. I was in an 8" Howitzer Artillery unit, my section...

I drilled a 3/16" hole in both manual handles and attached a black bungee cord between them. It keeps them from floating back and forth at "high road speeds". Also, applying a small amount of silicone to the rubber portion of the blade prolongs their life and increases their effectiveness.

Pull the instrument cluster and disconnect the ammeter, tie the red and black from the meter together and insulate well. Check bulkhead connection and repair accordingly.

Buy the house first. Toys are secondary.

I just use the back button on my browser. Speeds things up while reading the forums.

Welcome from the Plains of Colorado! Talk to Alex in Fruitland (just right down the road from you) about purchasing an MV. http://www.idahomotorpool.com/

Pick up a hydrometer at your local auto parts house. Used for checking specific gravity in electrolyte and coolant. Once you get the battery situation solved, purchase a 24 volt all-in-one charger, maintainer, desulfator.

12 volt battery and alternator would be my choice.