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Jakob, Look in the Tech Library in TMs for TM9-2815-210-34-2-1 (covers eng. disassembly) and -2-2 (covers eng. re-assembly). In them are sections on clutch service and rear main seal service including special tools and the seal retainer mod. You're welcome.

When we did Bjorn's rear main seal I went to the TMs (either the -20s or the -34s) and found very detailed instructions on replacing the seal that made the job a lot easier AND safer. Little tidbits like making a "stud" out of a 6" long 1/2" bolt to thread into one of the flywheel bolt holes...

I'm thinking PLS, HEMTT, LVS too-- or some of the later GI semi-trailers with 20" tires. Maybe this'll help in your search; 1917010 is most likely a part number. Mfr. 20076 is Titan International Inc., 2701 Spruce Street, Quincey, Ill. 62301 Phone # (217) 221-4302 Mfr. 45152 is Oshkosh Truck...

Take a look at www.primeportal.net Lots of military vehicle pictures and good detail close-ups.

There are some pictures on the internet of aircraft and tanks with a digital camo pattern so you may just be on the leading edge of things. The biggest factor between good looking and 'what-the-heck-is-that? is the pattern's pixel size. You may get a better "look" by going down in scale. Check...

Check out www.milbatteries.com/accessories/tt/nato_connectors.pdf

Dan Martin's right. Not only will you get a little extra when the mechanic has taken an interest in the project-- he'll know just how big a monster that trans is trying to move around. Once that's established, he won't build your trans to UPS delivery van specs.

Still, it's fun to dream... Imagine GL scrambling to get a cargo-shipful of EUCs filled out and approved. And getting denied because they couldn't show SF97s for everything or account for all of the stuff they've sold-- especially the stuff that disappears between close of inspections / sales...

It's a "Jeepney". You can find pictures of others like it by doing a google search under the 'images' tab. I think I'm seeing remnants of a flat fender jeep hood and front cowl and I know the locals are notorious for playing mix and match with whatever's within reach.

Yeah, but I've figured out a way around it. I just never quit adding to the list of things I want to do to a project. Or I leave a 4" square of primed but unpainted sheet metal somewhere on the underside of the bed. Technically, that way it's never done. After it's "done", a test ride or two...

Oh, now let's not go calling the glass half-empty. Just tell everybody it's "Summer, Beach-front Pattern" camo. At least it's not "New England States, Fall Colors Picture Postcard Pattern".

Nyuck, nyuck, nyuck... good one, Doghead. Here's a flash for you; I also have the Jacobs chuck set-up for my mag drill but I prefer Rotabroachs for anything past 1/2"-- gives a much cleaner hole and without a lot of burrs; especially if you're going through very thick or very think metal...

I still vote for the Packards. They just 'look right'. If you don't have an AF-8 (or similar acting crimping tool) the connectors can be soldered on. I've even used the civilian bullet connectors after stripping off the colored sleeve they come with out of the package. The AF-8 "turret" isn't...

Been bending sheetmetal 'til heII won't have it... dropside side panels, rear fenders, convoy light mounts, etc. My brother came over with his Porta-Weld and we stuck some support tubes in place to stiffen the dropside sides I'm fabbing up. Next came hinge top-halves I salvaged from a couple...

Once you find a part number, or have the original off for a sample; NAPA is a good place to start looking. They can match them from p/n, NSN, or physical description. We even found Bjorn's deuce rear main oil seal there... in stock! And on a national holiday week-end to boot.

Slave connectors allow you to jumper one vehicle to another; much simpler than having to open the hoods and wrestle with cables with their typically corroded clips. Everything automotive, and most gensets, have 'em. Just make sure you keep the connector capped when not in use 'cause it's...

If at all possible, inspection is the key. Got a deuce super-cheap once; listed as "cab and chassis residue". Turned out everything 'missing' was stored in the bed. I agree that most are poorly screened but it's always good to make your own determination; or that of an obliging SS member who...

Best to make sure everything's connected properly before you start on a two hour drive home. Hard to say without a picture but here goes; Elbow between turbo and manifold is necessary so the boost gets to the engine. Otherwise it'll be very underpowered and can (and will) inhale anything the...

Good points on the filler tube and engine ser.no. Carter. I forgot about those details.

Are we talking Dodge as in M-37? If so, the only differences are waterproof ignition and slightly different plumbing to get air into the carb. The bigger Chrysler sixes sometimes found in them are physically longer and so require the motor mount stamping on the front of the engine to be reversed...