Search results

I've got a handful of parts engines here if you need bolts, FYI.

If the stock lister clamps are missing, you can use small hose clamps. To tighten properly, you may need to loosen the cast iron hold down on each pump, after replacing the line sections, so the worm gear body doesn't interfere. Identical design on 802 and 803... Something should be there. I...

Look and see if there are little band clamps on the end of the rubber lines, at the metering pump. Based on what I see, my first guess is either dry rotted lines at the very end, or missing clamps. Much more likely to be a line issue than a pump issue.

I've seen all the bolts shear before, but more commonly the drive plate is what gives up the ghost. You might want to have it magnafluxed to confirm no hairline cracks before reassembly.

Just don't give it the filling test :oops: https://www.facebook.com/reel/539005415552348

Thanks for the input all. Sorry for the delay in response, the house has been sick for 2+ weeks now (myself included... what a nasty bug). So I will be shooting for a drop in replacement. I will be discussing alternate coatings, or thickening of components, for better durability. The current...

Hi All. I just wanted to let the forum know that I had reached back out to get current availability on these from the OEM, and I have been informed that they will no longer produce them. So unless I am able to find a custom shop to tool these up, whats left in stock is whats left... :confused:

Should be a max of 3% of rated frequency, which would work out to 1.8hz. You are well within spec.

Take the roof off above the operator cube, then take the panel off to the side of the fuel seperator. Get a chain wrench high up, damn near where it seats on the base, and give it hell. Only surefire way I do it... the rest is a lesson in time wasting and anger. Appropriately oil the new sealing...

The more you learn about the machine, the more one comes to appreciate what it is (and what it isn't). Might not be the world's most advanced engine design... but there's something to be said for that!

Or to extend the life of that particular genset. Its got the worst MTBF figure of any of the smaller sets. So if it can store the unused energy for later release, its effectively making a longer lasting product.

Well being the cylinder right next to the oil cooler, probably thermal stress did it in. Hours might tell the tale here. Any sign of leakage from above, that could have exacerbated metal fatigue?

Oh I'd say there was much to show for it ;)

One or more of these came up recently (within the last 6 months) at auction. The company behind it is no longer in business. If the price is right enough to consider the bottom part a throw away if need be, have fun with it. I've not seen one before that auction, and admittedly havent seen one...

Whats the torque figure on these bolts that give you issues? Thinking outside of the box... if you have the threads enough for one nut, find the strongest industrial Loctite (or similar) whose shear figures are well above what the bolt is stuck in there at, and use it on the single nut. I don't...

They make em pretty small these days https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/power-tool-accessories/screw-extractors/21595?store=14470

Can you use one of those reverse spiral bolt taps to drill into the face, then use a socket wrench to extract?

I bet there would be interest over on the Smokstak forums, but commercially at large, probably not. They might be able to help you source docs and more info on them too. https://www.smokstak.com/forum/#smokstak%C2%AE-vintage-electrical-equipment.107

Have you confirmed you have the right isolators in place on the machine in question? 803 looks the same, but different molded number and different material characteristics.

One left. You just don't find these new in box, an ultimate backup part for 803 owners.