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Got the front axle out, tour down. Installed new pinion bearing, races and shims, new yoke. put carrier back in, and installed cover. I really am glad I bought the case spreader, made taking the carrier out and installing a lot easier! also bought seal and race drivers, they made installing...
I disagree on the 454 "blowing up", they are a pretty stout motor. As for fuel injection there are aftermarket kits for that, but as you already stated you have the current engines already.
Why not just get an old 454, no computer, will drop right in, and trans will bolt right up without any adapters or issues. Most 454's came with hydra boost brakes too! My vote is cummins but as you said earlier you already have one.
It just seems like the load of the spring on the nylon, the weight of the vehicle, and torque applied on it from the tire, it wouldn't hold up very long, or is the grease actually doing most of the work? I think some of my death wobble was caused by the nylon bushing being broken on mine...
6 inches of travel? what rag joint are you using, mine had less than an inch, had to unbolt gear box to remove it. As for my new shaft it has a little more than an inch, so yes.......to answer your question, I am having good luck with it. If it is not enough slip, shaft can be cut. When I got...
so the reason for not using brass is they are not self adjusting? for daily use they would need to be adjusted often???? Just curious, I thought about this myself when I got my king pin rebuild kit, "why didn't they use brass", you would think brass would be better than plastic?
No 1 ton pickups, K-5 blazers, and suburbans were passenger side drop until 1991. then body styles changed and transfers cases in these became drivers side drop.
can you get a socket with an extension in there, get it to move(don't punch it into block) then use the punch on one side to cause it to swivel after you get it to move with socket/extension.
Just went out and looked at the wife's 89 K-5 civi blazer, it has the NP241 with the cable style speedo. Should be able to find one with the cable style at a junkyard and switch the parts over. Might have to use the tail housing also but not sure.
I just did mine, I put pipe tape and thread lock on all the bolts, just want to be sure I don't have to take it apart again because water is going into oil or leaking on the ground.
When I hear "it is good to go just need X" (put broken part here), I can figure that there is more wrong then just "X". Hope it was a good deal, sounds like a mess.
Yup rockauto is nice, I also use Performance Automotive, the manager has been there for over 25 years, he knows every part number for almost every vehicle without using the computer, heck most the time he never uses the computer, its really nice! I like being able to walk in tell him what is...
@BIG_RED I looked up zerostart website, I called them and they stated that there heaters are designed for extreme cold weather where temps fall well below -40. They said there is minimal heat loss in the hoses, and if heat loss is a concern they can sell an insulator for the hoses. Plus this...
Ya I had to grind off about 1 inch, I tried to use the sawzall and a carbide tip blade but that didn't work so I used my angle grinder. Also had to use a 2 inch spacer that I got from A & Reds .
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