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I would be worried about that also. Mine gets damp inside with just a heavy dew at night let alone raining like its been doing all day today. Just food for thought.
I would still seriously consider the engine swap if you have a line on a good engine for a decent price. You can always detune the engine and still be way ahead of the game and most likely not grenade the transmission. Just 2cents
What is the HP / TQ rating for the 3053a. I have been looking through a bunch of posts on the transmission spec's but all they keep giving are the gear ratio's. :x
Have you bleed the system ? Could be air in the line at the cylinder. That would be my fist idea. You can remove the tires/wheels and the little inspection cover on the brake drum to check for leaks at the wheel cylinder without pulling the hub/drum again.
Sorry to hear about the no start. I'm not much help when it comes to the I/P, haven't had to tear into mine yet. Hope you get it fixed without to much headache. I need to run mine this weekend, haven't started it in over a month.
Same spec in TM 9-2320-361-20, page 7-18 that jasonjc posted. I ordered new nuts and washers from McMaster-Carr. Dorman makes the exact replacement studs if needed.
"Install brake plate (13) and deflector (15) on spindle (1) and studs (14) of knuckle (8) with twelve
new lockwashers (16) and...
From TM 9-2520-246-34-1, page 2-102
"Companion Flange
FRAME 1
1. Using hammer and brass drift, tap on companion flange (1).
2. Put on washer (2) and slotted nut (3). Tighten nut to 120 to 150 pound-feet.
If slot in nut does not aline with hole in shaft (4), tighten nut until it does.
3. Put in...
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