Search results

I was kind of thinking the same thing.

Try Eastern Surplus.M35 For Sale. Deuces for Sale Turbo Diesel, Army Trucks, Logging, Heavy Trucks, Off-Road Big Trucks, Four Wheel Drive, Parts, Truck Parts, M35 parts, M35A2 parts, Deuce and a half parts, Reo parts, 5 ton parts, M900 parts, military vehicles for sale, In the 2.5 ton deuce...

Just a FYI, Take a close look at the threads on the studs that fasten the backing plate / spindle to the knuckle. I had 3 or 4 that had bad threads and needed replaced. They are easy to replace and Dorman makes a perfect grade 8 replacement available at any good auto parts store.

To safely secure and manipulate a engine the size and weight of a milti would require a stand like this.

NO, **** no. I have one like that and it will hold my 7.3 Powerstroke diesel but you can't even think about rotating it. I would be willing to bet that if you some how manged to bolt a Multi to it it would only collapse.

The "no output" could be as simple a flashing the field or a bad regulator. I am not up on the MEP-16 and the gen section/controls. My MEP-18a (10K version) has a "field Flash" switch. I'm guessing that like the -18a you should not idle this unit because it will burn out the output transistor...

Sounds like a MEP-16A with a 4a032 engine.

I would agree that a complete bleed of the brake system would be far better. I just don't see taking any chances with the brakes. 2cents

Here is the way mine is wired. #2 runs between the starter and alt. #55 feeds a small harness just for the intake heater system. #10 and 14 are on the same terminal on the magnetic starter relay.

First off Welcome to Steel Soldiers. I'm not much help on the A3's so hopefully one of the more A3 savvy folks will chime in. Good luck.

You might want to checkout post #83 in the following link for a more detailed wiring schematic. Wires like 74a & 74b only apply if you have the fuel pressure switch. Hope this helps some. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/3843-peter-bogs-cad-deuce-schematic-9.html

Great looking truck.

What DH said is a good method. I also have used a large pipe wrench on the yoke and let it hit the frame so I could crank on the nut with a breaker bar and pipe.

Here you go. McMaster-Carr

I wouldn't abandon ship that quick on the broken bolt. There is nothing special about the bolts. I don't believe they are even grade 8. A good drill bit, extractor and patience can do wonders. A lot cheaper than a hub, but then again I have more time than money for these things.

As per TM 9-2330-213-14&P, the deuce uses the same as the M103A1, M105A1, M107A1. The later models, M103A3, M105A2, M105A2C, M107A2, M107A2C, M448 went to a 2 cylinder setup.

I would say welcome aboard but I see from your join date you have been lurking. :D Ahh what the heck, Welcome to the site. Nice to hear from you. So maybe this was where the T34 on the lowboy cruising south on I495 was heading yesterday.

That is something I never gave a thought to. Very good ideas.

Better slow down there speedy. Don't want to over do it the first week. :-D

It's the brake booster unit.