Search results

Holy Crap :shock: I don't pretend to be a expert on this stuff but with the correct filters and the spring and cup installed correctly how can you do this to the filters just by over tightening the bolt without crushing the cans first ?

Welcome to the site. I have not seen a complete one diagram for the complete system. TM 9-2320-361-20 has all the repair instruction and diagrams for the brake system. Also the TM 9-2320-361-20P has all the lists and parts diagrams for the brake system. You can download the TM's hear...

From TM 9-2320-361-10 Disabled vehicle: a. Depress and hold clutch pedal. b. Place transmission gearshift lever in 2 (SECOND) position. c. Place transfer case shift lever in HIGH (up) position. When vehicles reach approximately 10 mph, on disabled vehicle: a. Turn accessory power switch to...

with the in tank pump running are you getting a good steady stream of fuel from the filter drains ? If you open the bleeder, item #5 in the diagram are you getting a steady stream of fuel ?

Not sure if the a2 and a3 use the same spring or not but here is the number for the a2 bushing. item = 18 P/N-7521829 BEARING,SLEEVE Qty-2

[thumbzup][thumbzup]

Very nice looking trailer. best of luck with the camping conversion.

Three things come to mind. A bent adjuster (7), something causing the mounting pin(10) to bind in the slot in the shoe not letting it retract completely or the cup in the brake cylinder not moving deep enough in the bore.

Thanks for the vid's. Great job "threading the needle" past the tables and boxes. [thumbzup]

welcome to the site and best of luck in the hunt. If you haven't already, you can download the manuals for the care and feeding of a deuce here. JATONKA's M35 TM download page

You could also go the bobber route. They are multifuel, manual transmission and with the larger tires they cruise pretty good.

Here is my F250 with 48K on the clock and piston cooling jets breaking off. So much for job 1. :cry:

I have had several vehicles with 700R4's in them and have not had any problems. The last was in a 89 V1500 jimmy that I used as a daily driver and hauled my 28' 7800# rv trailer. Had over 350K on the clock when I sold it and the original engine and transmission was going strong. Transmission...

I tend to agree with midcounty. If I was looking for a everyday driver, snowplow. trash hauler and medium trailer puller I would be looking at a M1008 or M1028. You could also get a 1031 and change the bed. Nice thing is they use mostly off the shelf GM pickup parts.

I did the same as Scott above. I purchased a couple packages of mixed gasket material at the local NAPA. Cut my own wedges and installed them with a liberal amount of RTV just for a little extra insurance.

If you mean item "P" in the diagram it was to be able to add grease in the nuckle to keep the older style birfield open ball joints lubed. Note 11 in LO 9-2320-209-12 says to fill with grease to the plug hole 1 a year or every 12K miles to keep the joint lubed.

Not really to bad a job to adjust. I made sure my bottom anchor pins would turn before I put the hub/drum assembly back on. Also remember to make the adjustment before you install the axle.

Welcome to the site and.... nopics

Very nice looking truck.

:ditto: what Countryboy21 said. That was the hardest part to get off of the entire process when I did the bushings, bearings, brakes and seals. Hitting like it said in the TM didn't even budge mine. Liberal application of penetrating oil and working the cones out with a small chisel was the ticket.