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Glad to hear you have it working. I was checking through a couple trouble shooting sections and thinking it might have been a bad switch causing the low voltage readings because of bad contacts in the switch.

I can't find it either, yet. It's like where's Waldo ?

You can spend a lot of time and money on one that was not maintained very well or was run hard, or just has a lot of miles, just like any other 40+ year old vehicle. Given a little time and effort you can get any part you need for the deuce. Except maybe the elusive flux capacitor.

There is a good trouble shooting section in TM 9-2815-210-34-2-2, section 4-58 page 4-526. They cover both the "uncovered" and "covered" type system. Even though you have fuel to the nozzle you need to check if the high pressure pump is doing it job and making 90 ~ 100 psi. As others have said...

Nice load of fire wood. That reminds me I have some splitting to do.

:ditto:

I agree that the defrost would be a big plus. Running around in the snow last year I really wasn't that cold but I had a heck of a time keeping the windows halfway clear so I could see.

Think I might splurge for a set of spin on fuel filters for Christmas. Was out exercising the deuce last weekend and when I returned home I was playing musical vehicles and letting the deuce idle. I went over to shutdown the deuce and drain the air tanks and low an behold it wasn't running...

Awesome truck :drool:. I bet the auction prices just went up with that review. :-D

Great idea. I love the Soldier A & B. :-D

I have no suggestion on how to fix the seam but I had my cab soft top seam at the windshield fail while I was driving down the highway about 50 MPH. That will get your attention real quick.

No temp sensor. It will fire anytime you hit the switch. I need to get a new HP pump for mine.

If you don't have any luck with a member having one available you could try Delk's. They are not inexpensive but have almost anything you need and are very good people to deal with. Delk's Army Navy Surplus_Home

The pallet jack should work great. Like Joseph said above it is very close to the wheel jacks used at every HD truck shop. I have also used a greased 2X10 to slide the tire,wheel,drum assembly off. The biggie is try not to hit the spindle when removing or installing. 2cents

From TM 9-23620-361-20 COOLING SYSTEM Radiatar Filler Cap Pressure. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.5 to 8 psi Thermostat: Starts to Open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180°F Fully Open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...

As cheap as I am, I would pay money to see that. :-D And I don't mean some hi tech chrome moly space age chassis and running gear with a deuce cab on it either.

I am not keen on "Stop leak" except for short term till I can get it fixed correctly. Any local heavy truck or equipment shop should be able to point you to a good radiator shop in the area.

Have you had time to troubleshoot this any more. Just curious what was wrong.

I couldn't find anything either with a quick search. Have any pics ?

You said only one brake light went out, The other stayed on ? That would tend to indicate a problem with the wiring either ground or feed or even a corrosion problem with the lamp holder. If the switch at the airpack was causing the problem it would affect both brake lights equally. Maybe the...