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Mactiredearg and I are going to rebuild (2) airpacs on his M35A4 this weekend. Same scenario, except all wheels locked up. We were able to release the brakes by opening the bleeder screw in the M/C, but as soon as you touch the brake pedal, it locks up again. Something's not releasing somewhere.

He might wish to keep an original military look to his vehicle, and not put big external locks on the outside. Lock it up too good, and thieves just bust out windows. Just short of an armed guard in the cab, nothing is secure. :deadhorse:

Owww. Where did you buy it?

Sorry for your loss Brother. Our thoughts and prayers are with you and your family.

I've got 200 hours on my 003. :grin:

I just think he's blowing smoke up our ......... ;) Remember, be nice to your kittyCAT and she'll be nice to you. :grin:

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Take the strainer out of the fuel tank and shine a light down in the tank. Let's determine if the fuel is spoiled first. Pull the primary fuel filter and see what's going on in there. There are a lot of things to look at before you throw in the towel and say the IP is the culprit.

Could the smell be spoiled diesel fuel and not JP-4? Take a look at your fuel filters and the bottom of the fuel tank. Spoiled fuel has a rusty brown color and smells like varnish. This spoiled fuel would also contribute to linkages in the IP being sticky. Take a look and come back, tell us what...

I'm glad you finally got someone (Gulfway) to write you a policy. But I won't say, I told you so. :beer:

I've never had that particular motor apart, but can you offset the rear main seals so the halfway point of the seal is not on the same plane as the block surface and the pan surface? We used to offset the seals on Small Block Chevys because they were notorious for rear main leaks. Just thinking...

I agree with JGBallew, pukeing that much oil sounds like a rear main. You have some work to do.

My gut tells me you may have more problems than a clogged or PCV valve installed improperly. But we'll start with the basics first, and go from there. The arrow would indicate the direction of flow, you want that flow out of the engine. Try and shake the PCV valve and see if it rattles inside...

The more you drive it, the more attention you have to give it. Daily driver? It's up to you, at 10 MPG I can't afford to drive it everyday, and $100+ for an oil and filter change, costs add up quickly. Air Conditioning? If you have any thoughts you can't survive driving without A/C, than the...

On the frame inside the left front wheel, just ahead of the axle. You might need a wire brush to remove the crud and seventeen layers of paint to read it.

Both. Rubber Shell "Y" Connector MS27147-1 (Erik's) adpt (Saturn)

PCV Valve? You'll want the arrow facing out of the engine, not into.

Hagerty wants it garaged or no policy, been there, done that.

Here is a recent thread that may guide you in your purchase. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/conversations/90811-so-you-want-mil-truck-here-what-they-cost.html

:doh: No worries, I'm easily confused. :oops: