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The visor says to hold the throttle half open, above 32 and wide open below 32. Mine seems to start better at half throttle or even no throttle. In warmer weather, just wait for the light to go off and they start with just a bump of the starter, very seldom requiring any throttle.
I doubt it is a shift kit. I am betting it is a solid turbo 400 hitting a 4.56 ring and pinion. They are firm, sometimes you almost feel sorry for the u-joints. You will learn to just ease off the throttle like you were getting ready to do a manual shift. When they are really cold, they do seem...
Normally, I turn the key on and while waiting for the light to go out I depress the fuel pedal about halfway. If it does not start within a few seconds I will start over. This time holding the fuel about half open while cranking. Unless it is close to zero out all three of mine will start in...
I am in Salina, but you will probably take 335 SW to Wichita and then west. If you would like to avoid the turnpike, you can come west on 70 to Salina, then angle across and pick up 54 in the SW corner of the state.
I know we have a couple of members in the Ft. Riley area. PM me if I can help...
I know there are some pretty powerful street cars around with modified 700R4s. Not knocked the 480, it is a fine transmission as well. I just never could justify the expense to swap over. If it was my only vehicle and I was regularly making long distance runs, I would. Not for anything under 50...
If you have a good alternator / starter shop, rebuilding the original is the way to go. They are bad about stripping the flexplate when the bushings get bad. Do not be surprised if they tell you the flywheel or flexplate is bad as well. Glen
Here is a friendly calculator and you should target 1800 to 2200 as running rpm. In the old half ton applications they frequently were geared 3.55 or 3.73 with a .70 overdrive. 2200 rpm in a 700 R4 on 32" tires should put a vehicle right at 80 mph. Those are the people that just loved this...
Maybe we need a new rod design, or copy an old one.... designed to take the stretching load off off the rod bolts and convert it to shearing force. Compliments of the Cummins crew...
That is a fact, I have seen ugly beat up bodies with great drive trains and I have seen some new looking trucks that were just hammered mechanically. Personally, the M1008 is one of my favorite light duty trucks I have ever owned. I am willing to give up a little time and speed to know it has...
My M1008 will by speedometer, not sure it will by actual ground speed. Not really sure I want to try! They were governed way too high for the engine design.
"You say the truck should be driven for extended periods at speeds above 55. My commute is 12 miles and most of it is highway. That means generally 65-70 MPH. Unlike Sammy Hagar, I can drive 55 but I hate to. "
You might get away with it for a year or two, maybe less. A lot less if the engine...
It has 4.56 gears and probably should not be run over 55 for an extended period. They are a great vehicle, economical and pretty tough. You have a Dana 60 front axle and a 14 bolt corporate rear axle with a Detroit Locker in the rear. I have a 1987 M1008 and we have been to Oklahoma, Colorado...
Welcome to the forum. We get through KC several times a year. Sometimes with a M1009. Loll in the classifieds for some parts. I have been buying repair panels cheap through a local body shop.
I am not so sure wreckerman, I think we might be able to stack three or four in the bed of a deuce. A few 250s should do a great job of slowing down the rear tire slippage. :-P
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