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I disconnected the TEG with the heater running and when I reconnected (still running), the voltage had already risen substantially--- it arced right as I connected it (probably due to it putting nearly double the operating voltage through the board) and then bricked itself. I still mentally kick...

You are probing right at the terminals coming out of the TEG? If not, and you are checking past any relays, they could be the problem. If so, then that sounds like the TEG might have given up the ghost. With the heater off, you can try unscrewing the terminals and cleaning the connections...

To test the TEG output, the heater has to be running, and not in its startup sequence. Probe the connectors coming out of the TEG to see if there is a voltage rise (I have seen as high as 30 volts right out of the TEG)-- don't worry as it is regulated downstream by the control module. It can...

Adding one more thing--- the relays can be fairly easily replaced if you are good with a soldering iron. Otherwise, the heating element power relay can be removed, but this comes with a caveat--- if you remove the relay, you can only ever plug in an adapter with a fixed resistance value below...

When operating with a stock battery, there is a sensor (variable resistor) which feeds back info on battery temp to the control board-- at a certain threshold, it tells the control board to close the relay for heating element power thereby heating the battery pack. The control board looks at the...

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Look at the thermal breaker under the rubber plug on the lower body of the heater. Even if it is still pushed in, fully check it for continuity. Z

Also bear in mind that the charging system also looks at battery state before switching over to the TEG to charge-- if it sees high enough voltage on the battery, it will not activate until battery voltage comes down--- In my case, when I use two car batteries versus two smaller batteries with...

It can take sometimes a half hour or more for the TEG to reach enough output to initiate charging. If you need to check the TEG, there are two terminals coming out near the combustion chamber end-- you can check there for voltage output. Bear in mind, it can fluctuate with temperature. If you...

It is a series-parallel type of setup. You need the two dedicated 12v banks for it to operate correctly.

Ask and you shall receive--- and I have some nos connectors too........ I sent you a pm. Z

Remember that you are driving a glow plug, the main and secondary blowers, and the fuel pump at startup before the TEG kicks in...... you need preferably 10+ amps to handle that for the start sequence. I highly doubt those duracells will make the cut. Z

I sell that adapter on ebay....... but I sell it here for less (because on here, we are not subject to ebay's pound of flesh). Z

Yes I have done it--- they are hawker enercells. The mechanics of doing so are easy, its the cost that makes most people think twice. The last one I did ended up costing about $240. They are not happy going for long periods without cycling/charging. In a light use situation like most of us have...

John is absolutely standup--- I have dealt with him for over 20 years now and would work with him in a heartbeat.

PM just sent.

Add these parts to a conventional lmtv and you will be all set for drivers ed............

I suspect that message was meant for me--- and yes, my kit is available and will be at hagerstown, and findlay (assuming it has not sold at hagerstown)....... pm me if you want to know more....... Z

They are part of a kit consisting of 16 lights, wiring and a control head. I have a complete NOS kit that is sitting on my trailer to Hagerstown and Findlay.

Those cross bar tubes are for the 900 series soft top. The good thing is that the other components readily interchange, you just have to shorten those two tubes for use on the m35/800 series trucks. The rest of your issues with alignment are likely due to the cab itself no longer being square. Z