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Need more info. Is he licensed to operate in the amateur radio bands? Is he licensed to operate in GMRS? Is he licensed to operate in the Business Band? Is he unlicensed and wanting to use FRS? Is he unlicensed and wanting to operate in the MURS band? If he is unlicensed and wants to operate...

CB radio is HF 26MHz to 27MHZ. UHF is nowhere near CB. What specific radio are you hoping to connect? 70cm Ham or FRS/GMRS (both UHF)

When is that going to be done so I can offer you a fraction of what it's worth? I sold my bike and spring is coming....

I've never had the drums off, so I never had the chance to slather the anti-seize on it. I always coat some on everything before it goes back together, jeep or cucv. ;) While the wheels were off I gave the hub a squirt of penetrating oil.

I swapped out the studded tires for the regular ones after work last night. While I had the back wheels off I wanted to see how bad the rear brakes are; IOW, I know they're bad, just don't know if I need to order new drums or not. Cant get the drums off! I'm pretty sure they're just held on...

Finally had some sun so I pulled the left wheel and hubcap- looked too nice to do exploratory surgery so I decided to take it around town instead. Did some highway, back roads, pushed it backwards on pavement, backwards on gravel, backwards uphill- everything is working as it's supposed to. So...

I bought a turbo pre-luber back in the 80s for a turbo mustang II project that never got off the ground. Still have it! Right now it's being used as a pump for used motor oil, but I've thought about installing it in the CUCV.

A I remember it, you get less start-up wear. IOW, more protection in that period between the engine starting and the oil pressure building. Less heat break-down Other stuff

I have two vehicles that take 7 quarts for an oil change. Both the Hemi jeep and the 6.2 diesel get two quarts of synthetic and five regular. Been doing that since the 90s when I read somewhere you get all the benefits of synthetic by using that approximate ratio.

I pulled the old one out and cleaned the grease off everything. The old one looks OK, it's not quite as stiff as the new one, but I put the new one in anyway. I hooked up to the jeep and pulled it forward from its parking spot just a few feet and tried going backwards- brakes still locking...

Chemical Agent Resistant Paint. In the case of a chemical attack, we can't have our trucks looking like crap.

If you don't care about getting the 'look' there are some inexpensive clearance lights over here: https://www.speedtechlights.com/clearance

The second of the two landing lights burned out, so I replaced it with my last spare. I bought them on here, forget who was selling them. They'd been on the truck for almost 10 years now- use them sporadically. The first one burned out about a month ago, so the timing was interesting.

Don't know yet- still haven't swapped it out yet. Given how stiff the new one is, if the one I pull out of the trailer is soft I'll believe it's the shock.

Do you have any idea what the military calls it? There's nothing in the manual with that name, or anything like it.

31-10.5R15 tires Leave it stock. The axles/diffs are adequate in stock form. (Two words in that sentance are important- adequate and stock.) As soon as you start drifting away from stock stuff starts breaking and replacements can get expensive. Might not be the popular opinion.

Looks pretty straightforward to replace. Ordered the part. Thanks!

Put the studded tires on the '09 tonight; snow in the forecast.

Govplanet?

Nope. The backing feature is by design; in stock form you can back the trailer without the brakes applying. If it's not backing then it's not working like it should. Drilling holes would only mask that symptom- the problem would still exist.