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Your welcome, that is what we are here for. I believe your right, from your measurement I come up with .187mm late. So your button 13 is 3.17 + .187 = 3.357mm. Button 15 is 3.33mm I agree with button 15. I see one on ebay for $25 with free shipping. The other place surplusgarage is $24.19+...

Are you depending on the light above the ac interrupter switch to determine if you have power to the lugs??? Just because the light doesn't light doesn't mean its not working. The bulb holder screws on and sometimes people put them on to tight so the light wont work or it could be to loose. So...

Even with the kit installed you should be able to hit the ac interrupter to put power to the lugs.

Maybe, its hard to say. It may be stamped with 12 because that was the match on the engine it came from. If it was me, I would do the flow test as soon as you put the new pump on. Take the big cap off the center of the head, it's like a 7/8, then use a 16mm to take the delivery spring holder out...

There is A and B on the flywheel along with PC. A and B are for checking the clearance between the rocker and valve. Your supposed to do this every 500 hours 'I believe' from the TM. I usually do 1000 hour intervals. When you get to the combustion stroke of cylinder one, you would turn the...

Now that sounds right! :) Good job!

What the auto start kit does is connects at terminal 10 of the auto start board to K8 terminal 12. K8 terminal 12 goes to S5 to activate the contactor to send power to the lugs. Just remember that you need to disconnect the load before turning it off unless you purchased the additional relay...

I'm sorry, do the same thing but look for PC on the flywheel, its right before A, that is where the pump should be installed. I had a brain fart this morning and was thinking of the valve timing.

On the first unit, I would say the injectors are leaking while they engine is running. Instead of closing completely after the combustion stroke, they are continuing to leak into the cylinder. More than likely it won't leak enough to get into the oil but its enough to saturate the cylinders...

On the first pump, its not the pump causing the oil build up. 99% when you have excessive smoke and oil substance coming out the exhaust, its going to be the injectors. They are leaking into the cylinder. There is only one large gasket between the head and pump body, the plunger is the only...

I bet they didn't even torque them and they used an impact wrench for tightening.

That makes perfect sense since the rockers don't have any adjustments. Unlike the 003a which you have to adjust every 500 hours, the 803a's do not need adjusting. Which means, they torqued the rockers down so hard they deformed the metal pressing harder on the valves. Good work!

I would try the dead crank switch to see if you hear the noise with no fuel entering the cylinder. You should still hear the ploop, ploop, noise if it is the valves.

Really sounds like a valve problem. You can definitely hear the plop, plop in the video.

I bought a few units today and was surprised at the prices in NC. I thought they would bring more and the only reason I didn't try for those is because who knows if they will be there after Florence. Or how bad will the devastation be after the storm..

Hope you find one. I was on the look for one about a month ago and gave up. Sold the unit at a discount since it didn't have it.

Sounds like a valve problem with the plop, plop, noise you're hearing. Usually with a bad pump or injector, it wont get up to speed (not enough fuel) or will smoke terribly (to much fuel).

I had a unit one time that would surge with no load and it turned out to be the linkage on the fuel cutoff solenoid. It was binding and not letting the fuel cutoff lever move all the way toward the solenoid, which is fully open. I could move the fuel lever back after it was started and it would...

I stand corrected kloppk. USAmilRet its the 24th page from the beginning or the 3rd page from last of -24 TM for the schematics.