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Really need to start a new thread because this thread revolves around the older 004a and 005a.

I usually buy 40-50 units a year to resale and I've only been able to buy 12 this year due to the ridiculous prices.

Okay, so after some more research you can use pin L and M on the J13 connector for the sensing. Then R and S on J13 are the pins that go to the exciter. I'll report back after I've done some testing to let everyone know of the V/R works. This will save everyone some time and money. Oshkosh and...

So I have a 005a that roasted the T2 transformer in the Static Exciter / Voltage regulator assembly. T2 is the large transformer inside the exciter/regulator assembly. I'm converting the entire VR system to a new self exciting automatic Voltage regulator. The regulator is a ADVR-054 and its a...

LOL!!! Mea Culpa "by my fault". I think we have all had this experience at one time or another.

No this is not common. I've worked on hundreds of 802a/803a's and only seen a broken rocker on 1 unit. The rocker didn't actually break but the head stud actually broke right above the bolt head of the stud.

Everyone is right, mufflers make no difference. The only thing that changes the sound level are walls. :grin:

Probably not cheap. You can't get the manuals for them unless you go to the dealer. Most Kubota dealerships don't work on them and have not idea what they are doing. I've had a couple of people by 803a's after buying the Kubota that crapped out on them, that no one could fix.

Good job!

So, what I do. Is leave the pumps in place and remove the hard lines and zip tie them out of the way. Then use a 3/4 wrench and take the top of the pump off, be very careful because there is a spring under there. Take out the spring, then use needle nose to take the metering valve out and then...

The 002a is 4quarts and the 003a is 5.9quarts

No you don't really need to bleed the system at the filters, just run the fuel pumps long enough to push the air out. If it started you for sure do not need to worry with it. No isolators are needed, mount it directly to the 6x6's and call it a day. The wood will insulate a little, to reduce noise.

WIX filters work fine, just not the right gasket Plug in the middle of the bolt canister is the bleeder Test the batteries while its running and see if you have 26-30 volts across the battery

Is the low fuel fault light on or do you know if it works? If its low on fuel, no fuel pump operation and no start.

Yes, hour meter should be running whenever pumps are running.

No stupid questions. Diodes are one direction components. Meaning voltage passes in one direction and can not go in the opposite. On the diode you will see a gray stripe around it, that is the cathode (-) and the black side is the anode (+). To test them you need a multi-meter that test diodes...

Because there is no fuel in the pump to prime. After its prime, it sounds the same as the others.

Are you getting 24volts on K1 terminal Y??? Looks like you complete the connection with the AC interrupter switch and it flows from Y to X

Look at the wiring schematics in the TMs (its an individual attachment) and find K1 then trace your wires. X on K1 is wire 150B goes to P6-29 connector Connects into J6-29 then it goes to TB5-19 (TB mean terminal board) this one is located behind the relays in the control panel. Then at TB5-19...

Ahh yes, the drain for the water separator and the coolant.