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They are not all out of Albany. I've bought several with the same tag, out of OKC and Ohio. I've dealt with several and all seem to have new create motors with no other work done to them.
I would use a screwdriver and jump the starter to see if it actually works because it grounded directly to the ground stud. If it does engage with the screwdriver, then look at the crank solenoid inside the control cubicle.
I had a unit do this one time and it was the ground stud for the ground rod, that you are referring to. It was loose and arched causing the same symptoms. Unplug the fuel pumps and then go to prime and run to see if the breaker trips. I bet one of the capacitors on the fuel pump shorted. If that...
It's a spacer that goes on the bolt that holds the sump in place. If you look at your photos before you took it off, you can see it on the bolt, that it mounted right above the sump (holding it in place).
http://www.powerspareparts.com/search-by-products/engine-stop-solenoid/mep802a-mep803a-mep812a-mep813a-fuel-stop-solenoid-sa-3865-5945-01-378-7172
For your fuel cutoff solenoid.
If he truly rebuilt the motor, you should have a higher oil pressure than 20-22psi. Should be around 60psi. You may...
What about the fuel pressure when the unit gets hot and shuts down?
Hook a manual, oil pressure gauge to the line that leads up to the oil pressure sending unit. That way you will know for sure.
Ok, so it wasn't a total rebuild. He replaced rings, crank bearings, and head gasket. That explains why the oil is still black because he didn't get all the old oil out or didn't clean the bottom of the block real well. If the engine is able to make it to 80% and run fine, then quit after 15...
Did the guy do a total rebuild? If so the oil should still be a syrup (caramel) color. Now if he just changed the pistons and head gasket that's a different story.
Also, your oil leak around the injector pumps could be coming from the tubes for the push rods. I've had that happen before.
Sounds to me that it the fuel supply couldn't keep up with demand. What type of fuel pump do you have? Square design or Cylinder looking design? I doubt you did any damage, the knocking was more than likely not enough fuel in the cylinder to ignite while it was shutting down. The low oil...
It's like a dimmer switch, as the lever moves to the left it slowly decreases the amount of fuel. If the rack was offset or the injector pumps were not fully engaged then you wouldn't be able to start or shut it down.
Please do this before you do anything else. Take the unit when it's cold and...
Basically, there are levers on the injector pumps that fit into the fuel rail. The levers move left to right, when they are all the way to the left (towards the radiator) the injector pumps are off (no fuel), then when the rail moves the levers all the way to the right, fuel is fully open.
There are 2 holes at the top of the lever on the motor, it should be connected to the bottom hole at the top.
The stop/run switch makes the injector pumps cut off the flow of fuel.
For the oil leak at the fuel pumps, try tightening the nut on the hold downs to see if that helps.
I still...
If you're getting 120 volts at the outlet, that means the generator head is good. It's either the Overvoltage relay or Voltage regulator. Voltage comes into K4 (over voltage relay) and number 4 on the voltage regulator. It senses voltage on the black wire going to the 120 outlet.
The cylinder reading 50 degrees lower is the problem. Swap the injectors around and see if the temperature decreases with the injector. If not, swap the pumps and then you'll know if its one of those.