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From glancing over the thread, it appears you have 120volts when the master switch is in the start position and as soon as you let it go, the voltage drops to 0 or 37volts. Is this correct? If so, more than likely the Voltage Regulator has failed and you will need a replacement.

Awesome, I'll try that the next time.

Here is an image of the wiring diagram for the monitoring system. They attached it to the lid that covers the gauges. If you wanted to keep the monitoring harness in place, just jump pin G to H for the Emergency Stop and then O to P for the DC amp gauge to work correctly. I went ahead and...

Here is an image of the wiring diagram for the monitoring system. They attached it to the lid that covers the gauges. If you wanted to keep the monitoring harness in place, just jump pin G to H for the Emergency Stop and then O to P for the DC amp gauge to work correctly. I went ahead and...

First time I did an engine swap, it took 2 full days. The first time I took the head off a unit and unstuck the motor, then got it running was about 4 hours. From then I decided I wasn't going to take the engine out anymore unless it was absolutely necessary. That's my story and I'm sticking to...

Take the head off first and see how much damage is done. I've had 3 units with exhaust flaps missing and water in the motors. If your patient and take your time, usually you can get them free, then use a hone to resurface the bore without a full rebuild. I had one with a LOT of pitting in the...

I have a box of assorted O-rings I use to replace the rubber washers you are referring to. Usually you can find them at any auto parts store.

Don't base a decision on hours because I've had a lot of problems from low hours units. They are just like anything else, if they sit for 10+years unused, gaskets and other materials start to break down. I prefer units with 800 hours or more because I know they have been used, usually without...

Demoh, I believe smokem joe was talking about shipping the wiring harness to you for shipping charges, not the entire generator.

More than likely de-modding because I resale all my units. I bet I can just hook the emergency stop back up as stock and the unit will work. So I may leave everything and just do the minimal but I won't know until I can see how they are hooked up.

Test the sending unit per the TM. The oil pressure relief valve is located on the oil pump and you have to take the side cover off the motor to access it. I would bet that its the sending unit since you changed the gauge and had the same result. Also, if the oil pressure relief valve was giving...

Just by the initial looks of the set-up, it does not appear to be a remote start function but merely a remote display or monitoring (less complicated). The wires look like they are connected to the AC voltage meter, DC Voltage meter and the emergency stop switch on the panel side. I would bet...

Smokem joe, I've got 4 sets coming in later this week from Lockbourne, with the same set-up as yours. Give me a little time and I'll figure it out, then comment back.

1st try to rotate the motor over a full 360 degree by the crank (hand). 2nd wipe the fuel tank out by hand. Usually a lot of sand and dirt in there 3rd fill the fuel tank and put new fuel filters in. This will give you a chance to see if the well nut leaks. If you don't know what the well nut...

The door looks like it can be knocked back into shaped. I wouldn't worry about the bottom piece.

Just for reference, I have a guy who bought a 802a with 200hours, in January 2017 to run his homestead. I spoke with him about 2 weeks ago and he has logged 7,433hrs running 20-24hrs a day without 1 issue.

For your reference, if it matters. My commercial load bank is a pure resistance load like yours and at 100% load on the meter, my load bank is at 12kw.

The bad thing was that I checked the wiring first because that was my first thought of the problem. S8 can be confusing when reading it number chart on it and the problem came on wire terminal 14 and 16. When I was checking the wires the first time I just glanced at the location and the wire...

Found the problem. Apparently when they rebuilt the unit one small wire was put on the wrong location on S8 (reconnection switch). I was in the process of taking a S8 off a donor unit to switch and notice the wire hook up looked a little different so I compared it to the one I'm working on. Sure...

Your solenoid is missing the adjustment bolt. Basically its a bolt that is threaded into the rod that your boot is covering and held in place with a nut so it won't back out. Take the solenoid out and find a bolt to thread into the rod and you'll be set. The bolt (adjuster) is about an inch long...