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See the pictures in the 3rd post of this thread. Its hard to tell if that crack near the top hinge is structural or just the paint. But I feel better now that its repaired with the reinforced bondo. It didnt want to flex there before or after the repair, but better safe than sorry I suppose.

That probably would have been fine for most of it, but some of the cracks were around the top hinge and I wanted the repair to add structural strength. I think the reinforced bondo did this well.

There were only a few spots that had exposed fibers. I cleaned them thoroughly with acetone and let them dry, before going directly over it with bondo. I used etching primer on the bondo before paint.

Regretably I don't have many good before pictures except for a couple from the ebay listing. I attached them here for reference. Also, I will mention that this is still a work in progress because the window frames are not done yet, and the drivers side rear door still needs a latch installed...

Just wanted to post some pics of a set of x doors I recently restored. I don't know what I'm doing and there was a ton of trial and error, but in the end I think it turned out pretty good. I got some really beat up X doors for cheap on ebay. The two rear doors were pretty good except for some...

I was told by MAC motors the new design (assuming the one with flats on the ends) is to prevent door rattle.

Fixed up some really beat up x doors. Still a lot of work to do but got them mocked up on the truck:

MAC Motors has OEM rear strikers, but no fronts. I didn't even know about the shims, what are they for? Is it just for making adjustments, or are they always used?

I ordered the tempered glass and sent a picture of the original gasket to the glass company to see if they could match it. Before ordering I measured one of the original windows. It was pretty damn close to the 20 1/16 by 14 1/8, if anything it may have been 1/16th oversized from those...

Well, two of my frames dont have any gaskets, and I cant find OEM gaskets anywhere. So I'm rigging up something with foam U-channel from McMaster Carr. I'm going to measure everything carefully and make sure it will work before placing the order. Honestly, it seems to me like the frames are...

Got a quote from a second vendor, they quoted $90 for lam, and $45 for tempered, so in the same ballpark. I finally got my doors today, so I'm going to pull the glass out and get some good measurements before pulling the trigger.

But your still limited to the max rpm of your engine, for a given transmission and gearing right? Point being...on an M998 with a 3 speed, you shoudn't exceed 55-60mph I'm told. If you were to add a turbo to the engine but keep the same transmission and gearing, wouldn't it still be a bad idea...

I don't think the top speed is neccessarily about power, more about not exceeding max RPM's and overspinning the engine. More power would just help get you there faster.

Interesting. Doesn't that prove though that an A0 upgraded with a 4 speed would have the best top speed gearing of all?

Everyone makes good points. I think either would be suitable, so I'm leaning toward tempered at half the price. I'm not exactly made of money lol.

Must be nice to be able to take a month long holiday.

Is it though? Most standard auto windows are tempered. They are easier to break in an emergency.

Where are all the humvee auctions? Doesn't seem to be any on Gov Planet: https://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/search.ips?m=AM+General&sort=ad%20desc&sm=0&mf=1 I see two that have been painted civilian colors, that's it.

If anyone is interested, I got one of the quotes back from a glass shop. They quoted $95.70/ea for laminated glass, or $47.12 for tempered glass. Still waiting on a quote from another vendor. You guys think laminated is worth twice the money?

Flux capacitor?