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To maintain 25 fpm line speed on bare drum (which may not be necessary) the motor will need 20 gpm.

no - it's from the repower and is completely above the frame rails and not between. however, the motor does [obviously] occupy the space that the OE drive shaft does, and therefore the area in the radiator that has been clearanced to accomodate this. What I can do is measure the motor...

ah, I understand what you're saying. For curiosity sake I'd like to now pull up the winch parts drawings to see what style bearings used to control axial thrust. I'll have to get back to you on that. you think the -34 will give shaft runout...?

I agree w/ Scott - you need at least a 20k trailer. as long as the truck is rated for the GVW of the GN pin weight and trailer brakes are good, you should be fine. this is how I plan on rolling...

G' - do you have a PN or specs on that spool valve? I do like it's size, but have a concern that it may be quite restrictive on the flow side. Interested, though...

Yes, the winch mounting is all OE - all originally installed on the truck. No modifications were done to the winch whatsoever. It's been there the whole time. The mount and motor fit nice and snug above the front crossmember - it was made to go there.... literally.

Yeah, the tank is going in the bed. Since I don't have the suction fitting, I cannot complete the circuit. I didn't want the tank sitting in the bed open outside, so it is still in the garage avoiding accumulation of condensation. Good eye - no tank means that the return line from the valve is...

G', that's actually exactly where I wanted to put it!!! However, I plan on adding a rear-mounted winch in the future. A dual-spool valve flat won't fit. The single spool valve won't fit w/ JIC fittings on the In/Out ports; however, I think it may fit if i use NPT fittings... maybe. I weighed...

i could also easily see a broken front axle shaft event during hard braking that would lead to a loss of the majority braking effort. you have to remember that there is more weight on the front axle alone than the entire weight of your rocker rig. you'd also be transmitting a tremendous amount...

yep, sure could have. except I didn't want the winch to be 30% of line speed, <70% of the line pull, and neuter the power steering while in use.

So that's where I'm at until that silly fitting shows up. Soon as it does, I should be able to throw on the suction / return lines, fill 'er up, and test 'er out. That is, as long as I got the In / Out on the pump correct... Stay tuned.

Winch Motor Fit I was also able to do a final install of the hydraulic motor. The shaft coupler was initially looking like it was going to be a bear - it isn't an OE piece. Rather, it is a duplicated part. It is nice that it is machined out of stainless, but during mockup I realized that the...

Plumbing Once I got everything laid out and distances estimated, I put a butt-load of hydraulic fittings and enough hose on order. Two weeks later, stuff is here. In the mean time, I also figured out the resevoir location, made a mounting system, cut out holes for hoses in/out of the cab and...

Control Valve & Test Fit Finding a convenient spot for a control valve in the cab of the deuce isn't easy. Essentially, there is only room for it in one spot. Before anyone asks, yes I could have gone with electronic solenoid control and operated off of toggle switches. I didn't want this. I...

just hang on...

PTO Mounting Next up, I needed a PTO-mounted hydraulic pump and respective PTO adaptor for the NV4500 transmission. Sizing the pump to the motor needed to be done carefully. I used a PTO calculator spreadsheet that was made by a company that speciallizes in doing such hydraulic conversions. I...

In my repower thread and disc brake thread, I mentioned a "Phase 2" of converting the PTO winch to hydraulic. Well, here it is. Don't get too excited yet - it isn't quite complete. One fitting (yes, one) is on back-order. Can you believe it? Anyway, I have taken a lot of pics, so let me...

prepare to catch a lot of flack for asking this...

select 'Mode' on the transmission selector panel - this locks the front output in. and IIRC, the front output is supposedly always powered, but only receives 30% of the power output. 'Mode' gives the full 50/50 split F&R. i'm not sure how or why, but i'd speculate there is a viscous coupler...

i priced a new engine from a [Cummins] distributor - IIRC, it was ~$6900 (12 valve, oil pan to valve covers, includes fuel system and turbo, 215hp rating). i ended up getting mine rebuilt (including new pistons and rods, +.040", and some tweaks including new injectors and DVs) for $4500...