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Thanks fellas,good to know the answers are a click away:-D

Thanks Doghead,been reading every post i can find on this subject,i wasnt sure what was best in conjunction with the gaskets ,if anything.

The button panel is newer,probably better too.Mine is the old lever type.

Im ready to install my winch pto and have a few dumb questions,should a sealer be used with gaskets,or gaskets alone?and i have a few different gaskets,paper and cork,the cork being thickest,any advantage to either as long as the backlash is correct?

Thanks for the replies,will invest in a boost gauge and try to get it dialed in,in the mean time there is no harm in running it the way it is? just more fuel consumption?

Been reading on the smoke cam-droop screw issue and am not finding alot of info,if i do adjust the droop screw ,what am i after? it barely leaves a smoke trail,egt's are good=1200*on a long ,steep uphill pull,no smoke at idle,starts easier than ever,just need a little more clarification please.

I placed the probe in the location above the flange as Cranetruck recommends,toward the firewall.I have to say it starts much easier and idles much smoother when cold than before,and WOW much more power,it doesnt smoke at idle,only when you blip it a puff of black smoke will roll,1200* is as...

Bypassed the fdc the other day ,installed a Hewett pyro pre turbo and on the longest hill around here it will reach 1200*on a long pull,dont have a boost gauge,is that too hot?? I havent touched fuel adj,i have read make sure the rod doesnt turn while turning the nuts,as most have a allen or...

It doesnt hit the housing ,but very close,where can you get parts for a rebuild

I decided to pick up a whister and try it in place of the D,heres the question,should there be side to side play in the propeller shaft? very little end play but twice as much side to side comparing to the D i removed.

Welcome from Parkersburg.

Thank you all for all the good advice,now i got to get to work.

also is it recommended during reassembly to use some tyye of sealer,gasket maker on the gaskets

thats probably it!!the new cup that was in my rebuild kit for the large air piston is why its so tight,looks like leather or something similar and very stiff,any ideas in how to make it more plyable?

I did lube well,deciding to get another rebuild kit and try again,try to reuse what i have ,or soak it up and buy a new airpak.what a headache!!

i had to give the big piston a good tug with visegrips attached to get it out of the can,i did hone the cans bore ,it looked good before and still does,the new cup made it tight,the only other threaded hole in the airpak ,besides bleeder is a thin hex plug kinda under the bleeder that reveales...

where would the second bleeder be located?i have the oid type airpak.

carefully inspected the bore of small air piston and there is some pitting there that i didnt catch before,may be the problem,i imagine even light pitting couldnt be good,not super bad but cant be honed smooth

no,just one bleeder,i have tore down on my bench now looking for the problem,the large piston in can is very hard to move ,should it be that tight?i remember it was hard to get started during the rebuild, and what did you use to hone the small air valve piston bore?

Anybody have the understanding of how these airpaks work that may point me to a specific part,piece to look at as to why its not releasing the fluid back to the m/c?