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No experience with that particular kit, but plenty of experience at work with kits in general. Usually they don't fit well and you end up rebending and or fighting with them. Stainless comes in all different "flavors"! I've replaced stainless lines and stainless exhaust that didn't last as...

Probably showing my age here but..... Used to put cardboard on the floors in the deuces and five tons in the wintertime as your feet would freeze with out it! Feet direct to cold metal never worked so well! CUCV's weren't much better! (And the earlier jeeps were brutal!) M1008 now has 3m sound...

Assuming you're trying to remove the radiator support bushings? They use a bolt! Top is accessed by removing grill and using socket etc to hold top!

Have seen these several times on SS member rides... I Currently have steel factory wheels that would need media blasted and painted for my "nut and bolt restoration". Dont care about originality as this is a SBC powered, somewhat modified and restored work truck. Running 285 75 16's which are...

IMHO and past experience.... The last universal kit i bought for my M1008/SBC/headers did not fit well at all. Right headpipe did not clear the transfer case and one of the tailpipes was unusable do to fitment! Ended up spending more time making it fit than it would have taken to bend new...

Wow! Kudos for the effort!

Panel adhesive is made by SEM, Valvoline (pliogrip) and numerous others. Readily available, and is used in structural applications. Good for patching pieces in or entire panels. Have used both methods (welding or adhesives) but panel adhesive has become a industry standard.... Have to make...

Repairing or patching holes with steel would be far better than bondo! The new panel adhesives are really good, even a little easier than welding! Remove rust as best possible, then undercoat with cans?

Ahh, the final final!

The glow has persisted with several different alternators over the years. Only visible at night, and being a "work" truck it doesn't get driven at night very often! This is not a 6.2, so is fully converted to 12v with a 10si alternator on a small block!

I'll be watching this one! Mine has done this for the ten plus years i've had it... Always charges, but light dimly glows with heater on!

2nd the goodyear duratracs! Wear is minimal, traction (mostly snow) is outstanding, road noise is minimal.... 285 75 16's on mine.

Check transmission for water! If frothy you'll be drilling and tapping convertor to get it all out.... Pull rear brake drums. Mud will do bad things in rear brakes and all bearings (f&R)! Probably drain and clean front diff. These vehicles are not, and never were really good about deep water...

Believe the floor brackets were for the M8 chemical alarms.

Buy rolls of nicoop line and make your own! Or, buy straight sections of nicopp and use a union! Nicopp bends easier and will last longer than the rest of the truck! Been down the preformed aftermarket lines road. Usually they don't fit very well, or they're inferior product!. I personally also...

I went the headlight relay route on my rebuild/restoration. Bosch relays, and ordered the pigtail harnesses. Standard motors S654 (used enough of these that i knew the number!!) makes for a neat install. I have the Hella headlights with replaceable bulbs....Not as good as the LED's., but only...

Probably too late as i saw cans of the chassis paint, but the two part is more durable than the spray bomb single part! I used the Extreme chassis w/ceramic and hardener.... Have to use spray gun but once again cheapy works...

Strongly advise epoxy primer (w/hardener) I used kirker enduro prime (after frame and body bits/pieces were media blasted). Much tougher than spray bomb stuff. I then applied the Eastwood chassis paint! Epoxy primer can be sprayed with a HF cheap gun.... If your going this far do it right!

Not that it much matters, but usaully the adjustment slots are a rubber plug. Beliwve that's the inspection hole for brake shoe lining (which you don't have either!)

Rebuilding what you have is a wise choice. Reman (and new) parts are ALWAYS a crap shoot. Had read in a trades publication a while back that 40% failure rate was acceptable on electrical parts. Well i do believe that number is correct based on "first hand" experience. I would also guess...