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Here's a link w/ a photo of a tank from LMC, I think. http://www.fourwheeler.com/project-vehicles/131-1105-1965-dodge-m37-the-dumpster/ Oh - and as for more capacity, that's what Jerry cans are for. Steve

By all means, get on G741.org. I've got rust but no holes. Here are some links on the topic. I've been figuring on an S-10 pending getting the orignal tank up to snuff. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=105415 http://www.g741.org/PHPBB/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5307 And Welcome...

John, I can see why you were so lit up about the event. Glad it was such a great day not only for you but for the others in attendance. Should happen more places, more often. Steve

Here's a link to G503.com where they get in to that color. It's close, but I'd still trust my eye on a match rather than a mfr's number. http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=223257 [edit] And I just found this PDF link with 2430 beside 24087. See pg. 6...

By the time the camera and monitor get done messing with colors, nothing is right on a web page. When you get the sample, take it outside in both shade and sunlight for comparison. It might appear different than in the store. Steve

If you Google 'M135 Military Truck' and then click on Images, there are a lot of color photos of original paint jobs (not restorations.) There are several different shades, many of them in the lighter WWII direction. Some are darker and more green like the can. My buddy's M37 is the...

To my eye, the can is too green to be either '87 or '70. I have both from Rapco and both of those have a distinct brown tint esp. in direct sunlight. In the thread you posted, look at pic4 in this post...

I was just offered a Seilman SA Hella off of an M35A3. Does anyone know whether its interchangeable? Steve

Thanks. I'll try to get a better picture tomorrow just to be sure. [edit] Just saw it partially hidden behind the bracket. How'd I miss that? Steve

Thanks for the comments. To me it looks like casting and vents rather than the distinct fans that I see in Cranetruck's illustration. Here's another shot that I didn't use initially because it's sorta crappy. I read about the civvy replacements and the brackets but I'm not quite there yet...

Mine went out on me this weekend. However, after reading all the alternator threads, I have reason to believe it's been failing for a while. I'm going to do some basics like cleaning the ground, running some of the tests mention in the TMs and threads, but before I make a decision on what to...

Shouldn't that be in a parade today or sump'in? Steve

Very nice. Steve

Fenders can be purchased for a range of prices, new and used. Driver's side is scarce so they cost a fortune. Consider whether yours is worth repairing. Steve

Yup. Steve

Speaking of transfer case -- take it for a ride at 40 -45 and see if it wants to pop out of high range. If it stays in, keep your hand lightly on the xfer case shifter and see if it wants to do the Bossa Nova fore-and-aft. If it does . . . Ask me how I know. Steve

Check your NC state laws for registration information. Historic is great but in some states it limits usage. If you need to put down a weight, make sure it squares with your weight and dimension data plates. Steve

Dot5 brake fluid: $50/gal & up if you can get it from a member or at a show. If NAPA or the other parts store, lots more. Don't even think of adding Dot3 unless you go through a (bad idea) flushing procedure. Makins for a power bleeder: $25 - $30 from Lowes (pump bug/weed sprayer). See...

http://www.jatonkam35s.com/SPINONADAPTERKITS.htm Steve

Sharp. I like MERDC. Steve