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Heading out tomorrow...Tucson>Florence, Or>Tucson. During pre-road-test checkout yesterday found one headlight dark. :-( Anyone have a suggestion as to where I might pick one up enroute? Route is flexible; plan on driving largely daylight hours anyway, but one never knows. Another thought...

You might also want to check the brake pad clearances before you re-mount the wheel. Just finished doing all the bearings/seals/wheel cylinders and found that almost invariably the pad-to-drum clearances were off after re-assembly. Pretty easy...need a 1 1/8 box end and 1/2, 9/16 and 11/16...

Put on a set of the green, zipperless silicones from Erik's the other day...nasty color. They were not overly difficult to get on alone; less than 5 minutes to get each in place and locked on. I substituted a larger, coarser-thread ss machine screw for the screw that came with the clamps...

Looks like the right person could do eye surgery in there![thumbzup] What paint did you use and how much prep on the motor was entailed? bs

Pushed the old fluid out of the disconnected lines today [alcohol flush tomorrow] and tightened up the bleed screws in the re-built wheel cylinders while I was at it. One of the six had to have a 12-mm wrench to tighten it, not 7/16". It has a longer 'nut' section as well. What's up with that?

Is anyone using the armor-coil brake line from Grainger? Looks like what is now on my truck and would seem to be a decent replacement if the coil is removable...trimming, etc.

SS, think you're way loose. The book is 50 for the inner nut, then back off 1/8-1/4 turn; 150 for the outer nut. Alternatively, tighten and check by feel if you're comfortable doing that...lot of folks do. Good luck.

I suspect that some of the fittings are either original ['73] or 20 or so years old, based on the painted-over dirt on the frame and axle. I ended up cutting off the fitting [Dremel] at the wheel end of the steel line, then the flared end; could have kept the flare. I picked up 4 used tubing...

Thanks, gentlemen. Heading out for a flaring kit, maybe tubing, and a tubing wrench or three. It's always a good day when one learns something. bs

Yet another question! Replacing the front axle-to-wheel brake hoses. The upstream fitting from the steel line to the tubing fitting was frozen on one side. Soaked it for 1.5 days w/Blaster [wrapped w/soaked cloth]; no go. Ended up using the vice grips to get it off. Considering...

During the last 200 or so miles of recovery [Huntsville-Tucson] the rearmost hubs were warmer than the rest, so I spent a fair amount of time going through the hot-hubs-related threads. Consensus of those who tried shims said it solved their problem. Mine were not hand-burning hot, but clearly...

Gentlemen, Thanks to all. New castle nut did the trick. Using a jack to press the joint was slick. No idea how I messed up the nut. Got the steering arm loose banging on a 1-in socket slipped over the studs. Frustration was from multiple trips to a couple of good suppliers...knuckle...

Ron/G, In the light, turns outs to be the nut; right one ran up and down smoothly. Heading out to find either a replacement or a tap. This 6-hub overhaul is nickel and diming me to death! b

In re-installing the tie rod I find that when I get the nut on about three threads worth the rod end starts to spin. This happened on the driver side; only. The threads look ok, best I can tell. I'll haul it into the light later to verify. ['Shop" photo explains the light statement] Am I...

Danced around with this yesterday. Fortunately found this thread and was able to get one key loose using a 3# hammer and a drift. The other 3 were seriously stuck. Ended up slipping a 1-inch socket over the studs and banging with a short-handled 8# sledge. The 3 came off in about 2 minutes...

Bob, I did try a couple and found that it seems okay, although a bit looser because of the metal loss. Thanks for the link to the studs...I'll be needing some. New issue! On getting to the left front hub this AM I found that 4 of the 12 nuts holding the brake plate would not come off...

Looked through knuckle threads and didn't find what I seek. In cleaning one of my steering knuckles I note that the stud threads are somewhat boogered up. I removed all of the nuts w/o a problem, but some were a bit stiff coming off. Best I can tell, the studs have 3/8 x 24 threads. Can...

This thread is just what I was going to start. There's no substitute for blind luck! I'm in the process of changing or re-packing bearings, replacing all seals, and re-building the wheel cylinders. Rears done; fronts next [also new boots there]. I'm going to change the fluid as...

I picked up these cylinders for doing someone a favor. Anyone know what they fit on? The smaller one reads: '19207/7412065 MFR (3BOY2)' on one side, and 'U' on the other. The larger has: 20 FD-21089 ORD.-8720486 218-3 C on one side and '?WARNER? ROCKWELL...

Ahhhh, as to the #31520 I cannot now say, but I'll ask the fellow when I follow up tomorrow. He did indeed mention that they were from a ?Spicer/Dana? affair. I'll try at least the one he gave me. We shall see...insha'allah. Question: how might the center of the seal wear? bs