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Anyone know what gauge is the wire that comes out of the resistor to the GPR?

I thought I would add this. I went to bypass the 3 caps/noise suppressors and plug the harness directly into the wiper motor. Heard it would give the wipers more juice, read here that they drain about half the energy going to your wiper motor. Not that mine were particularly slow. Well first...

I have one in my M1009, got it for $70.00. Bolts right up. Had driven my friends CUCV with one and really liked the feel of the thicker, smaller diameter steering wheel. While the tilt function is somewhat usefull, its the intermittent wiper feature that makes this mod a must do.

Went to fire her up this morning. Turned the key to ignition on, had Gen 1 light up but not the Gen 2 light. Voltmeter read dead as if it were off. Turned the ignition off and back to on, everything worked normal, fired right up as always. Worked fine again this afternoon when I fired it up...

I got my braces(3) from a chevy truck parts yard. make sure you measure them, there are different lengths Here's pics I posted for another member and more info on this thread ; http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/63541-m1008-th400-broken-case-issue-3.html

Rancho RS 5000

I've found that water usually enters in the front from the lip that the windshield rubber seals to. There are two drain holes, one at each corner, if they get plugged, the water will go over the lip. Quite a bit of water runs down the underside of the windshield rubber. Usually these holes are...

Something similiar happened to me once. Got in my M1009, went to start and no joy. Had to jump the starter with a wire and 2 roach clips to get home. It seemed like it just wouldn't rotate thru the last 1/4 inch and engage the start circuit. Turned out the ignition lock cylinder had an internal...

For the jumpy speedo needle; I removed the cable from the back of the speedo, there's a clip you have to reach up and engage with your thumb. Then I took a can of spray lithium grease, pull the cable slightly out of the jacket to get more clearance, about 1/4 inch, and shot as much as I could...

Here's the brace pics ;

You should be able to trace that fuel leak and discover its source. I just replaced my fuel lift pump again, last pump lasted just over 5 years.

On my last set of AC60G's half only lasted a little over 4 years, while 3 of them are still going strong at almost 5 and a half years. Replace them when they fail. When you start up, you'll notice a rough idle and white smoke out of one side exhaust , thats the side to check.

It's my understanding that the AC60's required a longer burn time than the stock card system provides as its set up for the older style quicker heating plugs. Thats why I went to a push button manual glow 6 years ago. It would start rough if I fired it up when the wait light went out. I give it...

I recently did some minor rust repairs on my M1009. The CARC paint is 6 years old, so its a little faded. Wanted to just spot paint the affected areas so I tried the Aervoe Woodland Green 34094. Its way to bright and yellowish, a terrible match. Dont think it would have been a good match even...

Well the joke is still on us. Even though the dollar is at an all time high, 1.03, yes its worth more than the greenback. we still get ripped royally on just about everything. Its so bad I had to get my glowpugs for $9.59 from a guy in NY, I just cant see that they are worth $35.00. Dont even...

Correction, it was $270.00 with a 200 dollar core charge and tax. Of course it is less down there. This is Canada..land of the rip off prices!

I took my M1009 to my friends shop for a wheel alignment. He calls me on my cell, tells me he can't do an alignment because there's too much play in the steering box. Need a new one. Go to Lordco which is a local parts chain much like napa. They have one in stock, something like $500. Check it...

" the bottom of the fuel filter is very wet" Sounds like your filter base is leaking, letting air in and losing prime. Just replaced mine, the usual culprit is the fuel pressure sensor. You can either replace the unit, the new ones delete this sensor, take sensor out and replace o-ring, or...

Just to clear up the misinformation. Consulted a knowledgable CUCV guy up here. As I thought, as long as you dont have air in the injector lines, you dont have to bleed them. The IP can purge the air on its own, it should be done with the cold start activated. It will run rough, sputter, die a...

Yes, I was leaning over the passenger side on the terminals and had not desconnected them. I believe it was tight as the rest of them. That being said I would be overjoyed beyond belief if it was only a loose terminal clamp. Will find out tomorrow when I test it with another spare battery.