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"you can go 33x12.5 stock to give you some more traction" Even though I run BFG All Terrains in this size, you'll get more traction with a narrower tire, if you're concerned, stick with the 10.5 width. Its all about ground pressure.

"wire coming off the negative terminal of the second battery" Is this unusual? My wire to the 12V bus comes from the positive post, front battery.

Interesting note about not re-using the starter bolts. I was not aware of this. Had to rebuild mine back in 2006 when it started grinding. Turned out the end bearing was worn so bad the shaft was no longer turning straight but wobbling all over the place. I simply reused the existing starter...

I've replaced the mechanical lift pump twice now, just asked for one for a 6.2 diesel. C or J code doesn't matter here. There is only 1 pump for this application.

My last lift pump lasted just over 5 years. Thought it was the hose also. After cleaning it off and giving it a closer inspection, you could see the leak coming from the crimp of the two pump halves.

My rad had the same low coolant level sensor mounting boss leak. Someone had tried to repair it..poorly. My rad guy told me it had to be removed to repair it properly. Put some bars leak in it and drove it for years, it still weeped a little so the system probably couldn't pressurize. Finally...

"only the crank turns backwards. They gear drive the cam so that the valvetrain AND OIL PUMP and distributor still turn the conventional direction." This doesn't sound logical. If the cam rotation is reversed to the crank, it would never run, just crash all the valves into the pistons. You...

That kind of heavy vibration-shuddering is what my truck started doing right before the transmission died.

Recently I noticed a few oil leaks. Suspected the CDR , so I took it off, a small amount of oil came out of the inlet hose, the CDR had very little inside and didn't appear gunked up. I cleaned it with Q-tips, blew into the small hole and can hear it close so it seems to be ok. Took the oil cap...

For bleeding the injectors I like to cut a couple of long pieces of cardboard That sit against the inner fender and angle down towards the exhaust. This allows you to see how much of a fuel spray pattern has come out of each injector. I found that just going by a wet injector line wasn't good...

Had a similar issue, all of a sudden I had to use the glow plugs all the time after only stopping for a short while. Turned out that the thermostat had failed, of course its more apparent in colder weather when you notice your heater doesn't blow hot air.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/72123-m1009-steering-delay-shift-2.html#post887515

"Are you sure it was Rhino?" Went to check my old bills but the info doesn't specify and it was 7 years ago. So I suppose I could be mistaken. Place sells autobody supplies. Could always go in and ask them to look up the stock number if anyone really wants to know. Listed for $128.00, I paid...

When I got my 1009 the interior had a lot of floor surface rust from a water leak that had seemingly gone on forever. Spent a couple of brutal days squating inside with a vacuum sand blaster. Then I used phosphoric acid on the side seams to neutralize any rust I couldn't get to. Next, priming...

"Also, any pictures of the setup would be great. " http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/63541-m1008-th400-broken-case-issue-3.html

Well, to clear things up a little. We are talking about driving on pavement, 2 wheel drive, hubs unlocked. The u-joints allow the hub assembly to turn, so when they seize up they start binding giving these weird steering issues. I'm not referring to the front driveshaft u-joints...these are at...

Sounds like what I had a few years back. It was the front end u-joints.

Sounds like your front end u-joints need replacing. Had the same thing happen to me several years ago. Usually do all the work myself, but in this case I let my mechanic friend do it. Had greasable u-joints installed.

" probably 30 second to 1 minute" What? are you just randomly throwing numbers out there or do you live in the Arctic? At that temp, with AC60's the light goes out at 7 seconds and I burn for another 7 for a total of 14 seconds.

Sounds like the needle bearings in one of your u-joints grinding to dust.