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The number one cause of CUCV's losing prime has been the fuel pressure sending unit located in the back of the fuel filter base. You dont need it, its for the military STE/ICE testing equipment.You can replace it with an OEM unit that doesn't have the sensor, replace the o-ring or tap and plug...

I didn't know 6.2's had roller lifters. Is this accurate info?

I first changed out my lift pump due to start issues related to leaking filter base, it was probably still good. Put a Carter pump in, it failed after 5 years, leaked where the steel lower is crimped to the aluminum housing. The next one has failed after only 13 months. What a piece of ****...

"unless your in 4x4 a u joint will NOT cause a issue like that because it is not spinning." I'll have to disagree with you on this. My M1009 had steering pull issues that turned out to be front axle u-joints and the symptoms all occured in 2wd with hubs unlocked.

This may sound a little too simplistic. Perhaps the idle is set too low, this would cause the symptom described. Try turning it up..

I second the "switch to OEM'" route. Get yourself a 27MT, rebuild it, mines been cranking strong for 6 years now. They are well engineered components. All I hear are failure stories about these gear reduction chinese specials. Junk it.

I've wondered about this also. After 8 years, its looking a little faded. Particularly the green fades to a whiter shade. Thought about using something to burnish the top layer off. Not really sure what the best product would be yet. Seems like when I wash it, after accumulating 6 months dirt...

Dont know if it will be cheaper for you but this site in Germany seems to have a lot of new parts ; M 1009 - us-army-military-shop

Just ask for a rebuild kit for a 27MT. It was only $40.00, here in Canada, that was 5 years ago. I wouldn't trust these chinese gear reduction units. What good is a one year warranty, a couple of years down the road. The 27MT is a heavy duty piece of engineering. When I first got the M1009 it...

" 08 belts blow because u rev them higher due to the rear gear ratio" What? You cant be serious...

Another vote for getting your OEM one rebuilt. I bought the kit and did it myself.

I concur with front axle u-joints. Experienced this myself. Put in greasable ones.

You guys have resurrected my 6 year old thread? I've long since replaced the fuel filter base. Still have the small hole drilled in the fuel cap, haven't replaced it yet. Doesn't seem to matter.

When I changed over to a tilt-column, it came with this wheel. Being smaller it makes the truck feel more responsive to steering. I also like thats its thicker. A great mod.

Speaking of your "Daycog" style with notches on outside" I tried a set of that style..they were garbage. After 3 years, the upper cogged layer started delaminating, looked like they were 30 years old. The lower section still looked like they it would hold but replaced them as I couldn't stand...

BFG TA/KO 33's

Been hearing a slight squeak when using wipers. Removed cowl, lubed linkage, works smoother but sounds like its in the wiper motor. Read this on a thread ; applied a good dose of electrical contact cleaner inside the wiper motor body where the gears are, blew some air in it, and then applied...

22 mpg at 60 on my M1009 with 33's.

Go to a wrecker and look for a plastic intake resonator off a civy 6.2. I got mine after noticing that several guys up here have them on their 6.2's. Makes a difference. Its # 10 on the pic. Mine isn't exactly as shown, there are probably a few styles out there but it fits the stock air cleaner...

From the A-team set Oct 2009. Me next to my M1009 and my friend working on his service truck, I think its a M1030. Have other pics of the set if any of you guys want to see them.. but its all Deuces and Humvees.