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12v / 24v fridge That's how they rate it on their spec sheet. Now that I've got it wired in to the 12v I can see the draw, it draws around 4.6-4.7 and then drops to nothing. It runs in cycles like that. Don't know the timing of the cycles, or how temps affect the cycles yet. Will know more...

Nope, AC / DC 12 or 24. We'll run it off DC most of the time. No need to be level, I think it's rated @ 1 amp draw (would have to look again), fridge/freezer. It's the style that the "expo" people have been using :)

Now it was time to get rid of the cooler, . . . no more looking for some place to get ice, or draining the water out of things that should NOT have made it down to the bottom, . . . dealing w/ moldy experiments when the cool leaves and we're still days from an ice vender. That's right, we're...

I've been living in a vehicle since `80, it's not that hard. As stated a slide-in camper or trailer (even cargo) makes a great way to have a "base camp" while you go and do other things. Elise likes her rig to be her live-in space, I prefer having a trailer, right now it's a 105 hardtop, that...

The panel has been maxing at just over 32v. They are separate and we already have been using them from back when we first added the duel alts. Unlike the kick a$$, high tech / high cost (at least for us) stuff that you do ;), we just have a couple 6v interstates wired as a 12v. Right now they...

PM on it's way

No, and I personally wouldn't waste power on it. We're doing ok in triple digit temps by parking the rig pointed the right way, shading the roof, putting out our 12'x12' canvas shade on the southside (off the rail), running some dc fans, . . . and the occasional wet shirt (sometimes on my head...

While we were up there we cut out the cab-over part of the rack. We moved it up about 4" and welded it back in place. We then added supports between the rear of the floor in the center, and the rails on the sides. Now it looks like this, and it's way more rigid when we walk on it :) The...

Now some of the latest Upgrades, We had been having some probs w/ the cab-over rack, mostly that we did NOT have enough clearance between the hardtop and the framing of the rack. It was also starting to sag some in the middle, adding to prob #1. This was the perfect time to do some of those...

Bingo! Write-up here, Repaired

It's a dual-alt set-up, 24v & 12v. The 12volt supplies power to batts for the living space. No dead starting batts after an extended stay somewhere, even when we have the music & lights on all night, . . . for days ;)

BarneysZ - yes it is, Thanks :) If you're going to drive by that close, . . . you do need to stop.

Some Upgrades Hotbox - Thanks, though I'm not sure, because of your avatar, if you are serious or not . :) Once again I'm in that "summer pre-departure" overload. Been working on some of the latest upgrades. First the step-tank as mounted (noticed that I didn't have any posted that were...

But then I've heard people say Not to leave the "stop engine" pull lever out, . . . cause it can stick that way. So hard to know . . .aua

Our forward flaps were the same size, I know I just swapped them w/ my rears so that it would be easier to mount jerry cans ;)

Here is something that I saved once, "The FDC is basically a movable stop for the fuel pedal. When you are running a thin fuel, such as gasoline, the stop moves to allow full pedal, and maximum fuel. When you are running a thick fuel, such as WMO, the stop moves to reduce the maximum pedal...

That's what I know as well, 13 -14 flats. Very little of the threads should be let showing. Too much fuel being wasted = black smoke = high exhaust temps = turbo damage. I wouldn't leave it that way.

I've seen that done w/ big fat timing chains and a nice step. It could move forward and backward but did not swing in much when used.

Got it! That also means that those of us running NON-stock tire sizes aren't getting "true" measurements. Prob not very much off, less than it would be off if we used the rim. Thanks for making that clear. [thumbzup]

:ditto: