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So after a few long trips in the last couple years, we decided that we needed another fuel tank on the trucks . . . of course the She Beast gets her's first. We started by taking off the tool box, we kept the step because we knew that it would take some time (in between trips out) before we...

Zout, Go for it. After 35 years of living in vehicles I know that there is nothing new out there, and I get my inspiration from others' build threads . . . yours included ;) If you want PM me and I'll give you the details of how I did it, what worked, what didn't, and what I'm going to change.

With the "She Beast" & the "little Draggin' "

Thanks everyone for the "no lugging", and how to "climb hills". I've got those covered. Many, many years of pulling trailers in the mountains, and I only lug it on down hills ;) This was more about "How" the fuel system determined how much fuel to inject. I think this explains that which I had...

This is something that I've been wondering. Lets say that I'm on a slight uphill grade, I shift up and put my foot to the floor till it gets up to a good shifting RPM. Am I wasting fuel by having my foot on the floor? Would it be better if I had my foot just past the point where it doesn't...

I don't. I'm thinking of changing the inside of that access port to something like a 30amp socket. We don't really have much need of shore power . . . so it's been low on the list.

Nice! Like the way the snorkel bends [thumbzup]

Been a while since I've done any real work on the "She Beast", but that is because we use it so much :) All that usage is in "Dirt Track Travels" There are somethings in the works though ;) Here's some of where we've been this past winter,

My gauge hasn't worked since I got the Draggin'. I have a dip stick painted in 2" stripes that I use . . . in those rare times when I let it go bellow the filler neck ;) Between that and always looking before and after I drive it I've never even felt that I needed a lieing fuel gauge, . . . and...

I don't know the lizard skin, but I think that the FatMat would have some trouble sticking as well to something that has texture (if lizard skin does) unless it's really warm, maybe heat gun.

I don't know the other products. I do notice a real diff just w/ the amount that we've done (have not yet done the firewall inside and out, under the hood, the side doors next to the hood, or the inside of the doors). It makes the "empty can" sound go away. We still wear ear plugs/ phones on...

We also used FatMat. I did the center removable covers while out and left the the edge where the bolts go through un-covered, . . . but NOT on the floor. That I just cut around the bolt holes. I'm going to cover the FatMat w/ rubber stall mat cut for each piece.

I too would like to know these things, a rebuild is in my future :-| (I'm not even able to get Memphis's site up)

You're right, I just checked her data plate again. :oops: M109A3 14,930 M35A2 13,030 1,900 dif between the two

The 109 is only 1/2 ton heavier than the standard cargo bed version. And my "little Draggin' " doesn't even react to that much weight in the bed . . . well . . . it does ride smoother ;)

Added another link to the first page ;)

Went to a gathering that they were having down in Anza Borrego. While we were there I put the "She Beast" through some of her moves ;) About 45 secs later Elise said that I can't play w/ her anymore :( I knew that she would do it . . . if I drove her right. 109 Downhill Here's a good one...

Mine does go up and down 8-) , not the smoothest but it does work. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/trailers/72708-m105a2-hardtop.html

It defines it, . . . but it doesn't really say what is needed to meet that standard. I could live in it w/o doing anything to it, but them won't buy that ;)

I'm w/ Bad Carp on this one. No class B needed.