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Thanks for that info. I tightened them to 60 lb-ft and at least two bolts were about 3/4 of a turn from tight and only one bolt was already at 60 lb-ft. I still need to clean the existing leak and then take it for a test drive to see if the leak has subsided.

My front drive axle (5 ton M813) is leaking from the input shaft bearing retainer and I want to torque these bolts down to see if it will stop the leak. What torque should these bolts be at and do we have a separate TM for Rockwell axles like we do for the NHC250 Cummins?

Maybe an M54A2 like this one?

Reserved for part 2 The formed hoses tuck in just in time and only required minor clearancing for the outside hose. The power wire also gets routed through a grommet and into the heater box. There is a 10' piece of wire with correct connectors that will exit with the heater hoses and connect...

...heat your cab, that is. Your turbo will be hot enough already :) I wanted to chronicle my summer project and share my idea for an alternative heater mounting solution for M809s with a turbo installed (may work for other models also). This all started with the question of how to mount a...

Thanks for the tip - I will be replacing mine next week and will be sure to try that out

An old retired guy stopped by my yard sale a few weekends ago and starting asking about my M813. I was telling him it had a Cummins 250 and that is was a small cam version of the engine family. He stopped me there and said "Oh, that's a piston burner. That's what we used to call 'em" He was...

It would not have taken any more work to fit the hood on it. Just route the turbo pipe over the rear head as many others have down and that's it.

This is the furthest I've ever seen anyone take a military. Go to your favorite flea bay online auction house and search for this: 1970 jeep kaiser 5ton military 6x6 4door turbo gloss black full custom 53''tire I would like to see a video of this truck driving around... *disclaimer: I am...

wcuhillbilly, In this picture is the hood shut or is that water inlet neck holding the hood up off of its front plastic pads? If the water neck were removed would the cross over air tube prevent the hood from closing? I know this is an older post, but this is my inspiration for my own turbo...

I installed a new bracket I made to mount my heater cables, toggle switch, and circuit breaker. A new toggle switch data plate that didn't come with the heater kit completes the look.

I have been installing an M35 personnel heater kit in my M813 and wanted to share the bracket I made to bring it all together. I plan on adding a turbo to my 813, hence the M35 kit with driver side diverter piping. My truck previously had a heater in it that was removed some time in its past...

I haven't seen those videos but I would love to watch them. Can they be found on YouTube?

I updated the link so it should work better now.

If your back doesn't hurt now, it will after watching this... https://youtu.be/AryJfB7C5-8 Edit: replaced link with direct YouTube url

Thanks for the feedback guys. I won't worry about it and i'll just use it.

I picked up a combination hex/square hole socket and they claim you only need this one socket instead of two, however if I want to remove just the hex nut on the rear without engaging the thimble this socket will only cover about 3/16" depth of the hex nut. I'm worried about rounding off my lug...

Yes, there is a shear pin at the winch input shaft

I lasered out a gusset and a few brackets at work for the fender supports and finally got them welded up. That completes the 3 fender reinforcements I needed to mirror the driver side.

In preparation for adding a turbo and the subsequent moving of the air cleaner to the passenger side fender I've made a new fender brace - the first of 3 total that I need to add. This brace makes a 30°-60°-90° triangle but the fender also slopes back at 12.5° so it took some thinking to get it...