Search results

If I recall correctly from my research for my rebuild, something around 170 is optimal and ideally you want to stay under 200. You're getting hot in the 200-220 range but acceptable for short durations. Over that and you're really starting to cook the trans. My cooler is after the radiator and...

Yes, line pressure is very important. You can err on the high side but definitely don't want low pressure. This is out of the manual I used when I built my 700r4 and its how I fine tuned my TV cable. It's very easy to rig up a test pressure gauge to get things right.

So it was working properly before you dropped the trans? Not getting a part throttle down shift is most likely a vacuum issue. I know you changed/checked that, but that's probably where the problem is. Check to make sure that the case opening isn't plugged/blocked where the modulator goes in...

The governor impacts shift timing. If your governor isn't working properly then you may get: early up shift, late up shift, no up shift, full throttle only up shift. If you have any of these symptoms, there are other things that can cause them as well, so don't just assume that it is the...

Hit up a you pull it yard. That type stuff is almost free at most of them.

I get them at around 35 mph if I hit a bump at an angle. If I go head on it doesn't happen. I replaced the steering dampener and it made a huge difference. The wobbles try and come on sometimes but I can tell the dampener is holding it back. I have the stuff to do the kingpins so hopefully that...

When I was looking for a torque converter for my build, the vast majority were 3 bolt converters. I think I only came across 1 6 bolt converter and it was substantially more expensive. My flex plate also has the 6 six holes.

I'll answer for what I did for lockup. I used a TCI kit that has a 4th gear pressure switch to get automatic lockup in 4th gear. I put a double throw switch on the dash. Up is auto lockup in 4th gear. Middle is off, no lockup. Down is manual lock in 2nd 3rd or 4th. Auto lock is very nice for...

I've been averaging just over 17 mpg for several tanks now. I keep my rpm's right at 2000, between 55-60mph. I've had it up to 70 mph but my truck seems to enjoy 55-60 a lot more. I'm sure it wasn't related, but the last time I was doing 70 my governor broke. Since then I'm a little shy...

Oh!!! That's what I did wrong. I pulled my tall adapter from a K5 in a junk yard (year unknown), so you may be good to go already.

Check the adapter between the two, you'll need the tall adapter to fit the stock crossmember in the 1028. Speaking of, I have a short adapter for 700r4/np208 if anyone needs one.

In my opinion, swapping a 700 into any of the CUCV trucks with 4.56 gears is very worth it if you want a highway driver. It is not a difficult swap. I did all the work myself, including building the tranny, and I have no experience working on vehicles. I enjoy driving my 1028 so much more now...

Cores through 1992 will work and some 93's. They switched to electronic controlled during '93. I agree with Warthog, because the 700's have been so plentiful people have regarded them as throw away, and many have been. I think we are approaching a time when people will reminisce about the...

There is a full manual valve body some people have done with the 4L80. No more electronics, but you have to shift up and down the gear range yourself.

The TCI lockup kit is what I used. I have a toggle switch on the dash that controls lockup. Auto: it will lockup whenever the trans shifts to 4th and unlock on the way back down. Manual: lock or unlock manually in 2nd, 3rd or 4th. Auto lockup is very nice for typical daily driving...

I've heard horror stories about the ones from the parts stores. Go to the dealership.

Is the thermostat opening?

If you are going to go to the expense/trouble of getting the electronic controller or going to full manual valve body, then do it with a 4l80e. The nice thing about the 700r4/4L60(not 'e') is that it is a very straight forward swap.

If you go to a parts store make sure you specify "no air conditioning" or they are liable to assume you have A/C, then you have the wrong part and you get to waste your time going back to exchange it.

Good looking truck. Do a search for "heater core", there's a lot of threads about it. It's a quick and easy repair.