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I do and I did. That was the -20P. Didn't occur to check the -34, I just figured they left off that nut

I'm not that lazy! My parts TM doesn't show that nut. The parts TM was the first place I went but since that came up short I posted on the forum.

I hate to come off as a lazy bastard, but, well ... if the shoe fits. Anybody know what size nut #30 off the top your head? If not I'll crawl my lazy butt under the truck and find out. I heard a jingling sound and peaked under the truck and my linkage is dangling there. Some of y'all talk...

Here's some speculation: Considering varying engine temps in different applications, perhaps when the trans oil goes through the radiator second it can return to the trans hotter than the desired 170ish because it picked up too much engine heat in the radiator. For example, lets say the...

Start with just making sure its plugged in all the way behind the speedometer and into the transfer case. A few weeks ago my speedo fell to zero while driving and stayed there. It was plugged in behind the dash so I looked under the truck. There she was a hanging, worked itself loose at the TC...

Just to clarify: I said throttle valve cable, but I was talking about the bracket for the cable, not the actual cable. The TV cable is easy, the bracket is hard.

The throttle valve cable for the 6.2/700r4 can be hard to find. I was looking for a while. One turned up on that auction site and I hit buy it now. People find them at junk yards too. There is a member here on SS that was talking about having a machine shop make them if there was enough...

Vacuum or governor, independent of each other, they can both cause loss of up shift. Sounds like you might have vacuum issues. If that path leads no where, don't forget to check your governor.

Check your governor, a faulty governor will prevent any upshifts. There is an access plate towards the rear of the trans, passenger side if I recall correctly. The plastic teeth get worn. Very quick and easy fix.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?101850-TM-Operation-Manual-question This thread asked the same question. The consensus was you don't need to worry much about how long it idles.

You should have a 190-195 thermostat, I forget which. Make sure your thermostat isn't stuck open

According to TM 9-2815-237-34 page 1-4, normal operating temp is 190-230. My temp gauge sits dead on 190. If the engine is under load for a while it will come up a bit, but falls back to 190 almost immediately as soon as its back to idle.

Thanks for all the input guys! I'll be picking up that stud off an Internet auction site.

Good, cause that 3rd leg is important!!!

I wasn't going to have the rebuilder do the work, just source for the bolt. I'll take a look at your link.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help! I guess now I need to start looking for a starter rebuilder

I did some looking at pictures and it appears I have the older style direct drive. The pictures of the reduction definitely are clear that the bolt is external on a raised hump. None of the pics of the direct drive were clear enough for me to tell where it originates from. Who would have...

First time I've messed with the starter. No frame of reference for whether its fat or skinny, reduction or not. As far as I know it's stock. Nothing else on the truck is altered. I assume the starter has to be removed to replace the bolt? Does the started have to be opened up to get at it...

I have an annoying vibration right at idle that I've been trying to find. It sounds like its coming from the starter area. I crawled under the truck this evening to just start checking/tightening bolts. The butt end of the starter, pointing towards front of vehicle has a little bolt/stud...

My 1028 does not have that seal, nor does it look like there was ever one there. My doors do not leak, now my windshield, that's a different story.