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Looks like the ad link has been deleted, it's against the rules. Too bad, I wanted to see how nice this CUCV is. Must have gold stitching at that price! I thought they were pricey at 5k, I can't imagine 9+, but I paid 1,500 for my 1028 2 years ago. There are better deals out there. You could...

Are you suggesting he check his diffs or transfer case? Transfer case is ATF, not gear oil

There are a couple different seals. It's not too bad of a job. I took a gamble and took the seals from a unit at a pick apart yard and swapped them into mine. I went from major leak to no leak.

When I did mine, I just swapped the two starters, changed the support bracket and everything went together fine. I did put new starter bolts. I think they are same, but I heard people talking about the bolts stretching so I figured it was cheap and easy to put new ones in.

Stock M1009 does not have a front locker. You'll be fine, just remember, 4x4 might help get you moving on snow and ice but it doesn't help you stop. Be careful.

Engine oil sampling valve. I'm guessing most trucks don't have one, mine does not.

I ran without a gen 2 for several months. I threw a solar panel on my dash and connected to the rear battery. It was intended to be a brief thing. Ended up staying that way for a long time as a daily driver, several starts a day. I would occasionally check the rear battery with a meter and it...

I've never used a tow bar. It would seem like it would be hard for the towed vehicle to track right during a turn if the steering wheel is locked. I do see the danger posed with a blowout and an unlocked wheel. For those of you who lock your steering, how do you handle tighter turns? I maybe...

If you are talking rebuild, then yes there are kits. If you are talk swap kit, then no, like Warthog said you've got to put it together yourself.

4.56 gears and 31" tires 2hi/4hi you're turning over 3200 rpm @ 10 mph in low gear. Put it in 4lo and your over 3300 @ 4 mph, over 4000 to get to 5 mph if the engine were capable of that high rpm without blowing up.

Careful with that granny low and 4lo, don't give it any throttle and you'll still need to shift immediately. I don't think I'd want an sm456 in a truck with 4.56 gears unless it had really big tires, was used for a lot of crawling or pulled really heavy loads. Even in my civy 6.5 nv4500 4.10...

I have a civy 6.5 with nv4500 behind it. I put a 700r4 behind my 1028 and I figured if I get an '09 at some point I would put a 465 behind it. I think that would compliment the '09 very well. You already have the top end with the tall gearing but the much lower 1st and even deeper granny low...

See if this picture helps with proper routing.

Mine was either a 1650 or 1700, don't remember which anymore. That's as high of a stall as I'd want to use behind the 6.2

Mine was around $1,000 maybe a bit over. I rebuilt it and installed myself. Without labor costs it made it a lot easier to go for all the updated components to make the 700r4 hold up without worry.

I had a vibration/rattle that didn't go away till I had a new rear driveshaft made and new u-joints put in. I didn't realize how much of a vibration it was till I found out how smooth the truck rolled afterward.

Ah! Sounds good

How did you set your TV cable? Hard hitting shifts can be because the cable isn't set right. It really needs to be set with a pressure gauge attached. Better to err on the hard side than the soft side though. Enjoy the 700r4, it makes it a whole new truck!

The auto part stores that loan tools have a ball joint / U joint press. Works real quick. I was using the one Oreilly's loans out earlier today.

Even down here in South Texas my "wait" light always came on for a first start. If I'd been driving and the engine was hot then I wouldn't get a wait. Have you checked to see if you've got a good bulb?