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Thats a great point.
But I would argue that many seats fail that way in a rear end collision. Its like the crumple zones in cars or aircraft seats.
The lack of upper torso/head restraints would cause me to surmise that maybe the seat back reclining you a little would be preferable.
My first...
I just copied the original bolt spacing but I want to make a new set to close up that gap so everything i set on the seat doesnt funnel through it into the black hole behind the seat
I had to make new to have enough meat to have the slide track. Both sides of both seats are identical. The knob was from home deeps
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First thing I did was change out the flat front seats for the high backs.
I replaced the two brackets that connected the upper and lower seat cushions. They were too upright and crammed you against the wheel.
I fabbed these up that let the seat back recline.
Id give you the measurements of mine, but someone in the long, long ago cut mine down from a two man and it was too long still to fit in the correct brackets. I fabbed my brackets from 18 g stainless and they are snug.
I would measure the width of your bed, and subtract 1/2". The GI...
Keep in mind that the base is the battery box and cant be easily moved. Now remove the thinly cushioned GI seat and install a thicker, taller bestop jeep seat or similar...You will probably end up with less room.
Do you have the newer high back GI seats, or the original style pop-tart cushions?
If you can get in there with a drill or angle drill, Drill it out till you are just undersize from the Size it takes to tap the hole. You will eventually be left with just a hollow thread that comes out. Then re-tap the hole just enough to clean it up and install a new one
It is Important for easy cold starting.
It also can cause the engine to be louder(clatter) than it needs to be if it is not functioning.
It wont keep the engine from running, but its wise to have that working
Arg....stant parts are so random in quality that I don't ever recommend them.
My rule of thumb it anything that senses or controls temps, timing, or pressures I only use OEM unless its unobtainium.
I got this for my 6.5 for 12 bucks shipped...
You gotta get a quality thermostat.
OEM if possible.
But they can be found locally for a bit less.
The proper stat has a thick body shell and is "balanced" IIRC with an opening and closing spring(?)
I think for the taillights to be DOT approved, they need to have a certain amount of reflective surface. That's why the Civilian H1 used the common Grote/Jeep style taillights with the reflective ring
https://olive-drab.com/od_mseries_circuits.php
I found this list of circuit numbers while I was cleaning up my wiring following a hi beam indicator replacement.
I looked up all the numbers from the dash connectors and sure enough...the numbers matched. Leave it to the military to have a...
Sounds like a solid plan. I plan on doing a full cooling system refresh with all new OEM sensors and thermostat soon just to be sure everything is top notch cooling wise. I am not a fan of seeing 230 on the gauge either