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Quite wasting time and pull the pump back off…you only need to remove the backing plate with the pump still attached, you don’t have to remove the pump off the backing plate.

its possible you get a glycol leak in that area down the road…how did you break it? It’s a steel bolt that threads into the aluminum timing gear housing

you are aware that truck has a switch to deny 24v to the Cadillac valve solenoid….if the fan wasn’t engaging “meaning it had continuous power” , why didn’t you just flip the switch which is the same as unplugging the TDM or the Cadillac valve? This would have allowed you to just to just drive on.

I have them for sale…new and used, these are the new polymer version

im an OEM shop, I’ve had many military contracts And work on and worked on pretty much every tactical vehicle in the inventory up to a few years ago…I just use DOT5.

you need the optima battery adapters to lock them into the OEM battery trays

you generally won’t find a good used motor in a govt can, why? It’s not a practice to remove a good motor and replace it with a new motor, the motor was removed for a reason and the refurbished or New motor in the can was installed into the truck, the old motor is returned in the can for...

after buying a few hundred trucks, I’m pretty well versed in how it works…your assume the price is $7500, plenty of R1 trucks for under$6k, you don’t know where the OP lives and where he buys the truck from,Yermo and Albany aren’t the only yards now and you dont know if he owns his own trailer...

$10k is more than enough money to get an auction truck…just understand how the bid and fee’s work before you bid. Also…determine what truck model you want or can afford upfront

Remove the top bolt on each side…

yes, the radiator is longer than the shroud…I Had to align the bottom of the shroud so far down at the bottom, I used a flapper wheel to remove some shroud at the center bottom so the rubber isolator would line up correctly. If this wasn’t done, the shroud sat to to far back and the fan blade...

Hummer H1 92-93 used the 3L80e with 242 Tcase, essentially was an M998A1. 85-93 used 218 Tcase….when the 218 was mfg discontinue, a “57k” kit was developed so when a 218 was to be replaced, you ordered the “kit” that also had the new front and rear driveshafts, rear diff yoke, Tcase lock lamp...

I’ve had a truck with that same switch, it engages the fan clutch if it not yet turned on via the thermostatic switch, the switch is a safely switch, you need to pull the switch to move it from position to position.

DOT5 doesn’t remain purple….just verify whats in it and bleed the brakes out as normal.

The new ECV length radiator has been out for a month or two, I’ve already installed 2 at the shop.

An ECV and REV is hands down a better all around truck…

TOW missile junk

You can’t really…at least not an OEM center rear mounted turbo. I do in fact have an after market turbo here for sale if at all interested…it’s a commander 6500 kit removed from a customers truck because he went with a different motor. It’s mfg by BMI, a page sponso here on SS.

There is only one carrier in and out of Hawaii for Roll on Roll off “RORO” is Matson lines.

yes, I’ve had probably 200 m1123’s through the shop…seen one or two that did have the casted version, the MAK suspension kit came with the “old” style spring mount, along with front and rear fixed springs, shocks..