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I know that at least the 002A and 003A run the glow plugs during cranking, so even if it seems like it's starting without them on warm days, it might not be. My 003A fires almost immediately if I run the glow plugs for 15 or 20 seconds on an 80 degree day, but takes some cranking if I don't.
In the aux tank setting, all three pumps are powered. A solenoid controls flow from the 3rd aux tank pump to the built-in tank, so it deadheads when fuel is not needed. The design of the pumps is such that pumping against a closed valve doesn't hurt anything, and the pump just clicks slowly.
The two main pumps are redundant. If one is running correctly, the other one should pass the fuel and the engine should run. That's why there are two in series, so if one fails, the generator keeps running.
I believe some pumps won't pass fuel if they're not running. Maybe someone replaced...
It sounds like your injector pump may have been timed incorrectly, or something was wrong with the injectors themselves. It's definitely not normal to have to adjust the speed cable to get an 002A to start.
Guyfang, If you ever feel like doing some independent testing, I'll be glad to repair or replace your regulator free, if the testing causes a problem with it.
No, running under speed with an 003A or 002A will not hurt the regulator. I installed a regulator output current meter in the front panel of my 003A and watched the current at different engine speeds, with and without loads. The regulator works hardest at engine speeds higher than 1800 rpm...
You won't hurt an 003A by running the engine slowly. Maybe other generators, but not the 002A or 003A. Getting Jim C.'s kit is a good idea, as is the Kill-A-Watt meter. I use mine like Chainbraker does. You can check your frequency meter if you have an old 120v analog clock. At 60 Hz, it...
The Fluke 87 has a range button that will lock the range to whatever one you want. It also has a fast-response bar graph for indicating rapid changes that you might not be able to read on the digital display.