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Also does the R1 have a 3 speed or a 4 speed?
Especially if it has a 3 speed have you ever considered using the R1 to restore the A2 truck? Again if the R1 has a three speed there is allot more to be desired in the A2 truck, Of course I have no idea what the condition of the A2 truck is in...
Then there is not much chance the gear key is sheared.(y)
I will be interested in how the tests go, with your bad batteries you may have just had too slow cranking speed or the voltage was dropping too low to hold the fuel solenoid in the run position.
That could be a possibility but it would be rare in this application unless you had the wrong wire attached to the IP.
You still have not said if the original IP has a seized shaft.
So I was incorrect, the ones I listed are for serial number 246XXX and below.
THANKS for the updated parts TM!!! the one I had did not list the 1152A1
So Pstyckiewicz your UOC for the M1152A1 is UUA, when you look up a part and it has the UOC codes listed under the part description that is...
Then I think the one you showed is correct.
The only differences is their length, so you could ask them to measure the tie rod itself not including the tie rod ends and see if they are the same as yours.
No they are the same for both sides.
You have all the correct tie rod ends but someone...
What is your serial number?
I am with you on looking for replacements, that cross threaded tie rod could not be a strong as a correctly threaded tie rod
OK then your truck is not in that parts book.
In your case the A1 designation does not mean the same as the early trucks.
I believe your tie rods are the same as the M1152.
NSN #2530014212563 and manufactures part # 06005119
If I am wrong hopefully someone will jump in here and correct me.
Depending on what model you have (I do not see you mention it anywhere above) there are two common tie rods, the Basic/A1 and the A2/later trucks.
ALL the tie rods ENDS are the same (there is a right and left thread so there are two part number) , that is why there are no UOC codes listed under...
You must have a good set of batteries to spin the engine fast enough to get the IP to work, that may be your entire problem, or not:eek:
Do you still have the original IP and is the shaft seized?????
Ok I had to laugh when I read the edit of the title.
It was not the sock, it was a grossly contaminated fuel tank, and you are along way from a final resolution just by removing the sock.;)
One thing you could do is pull the plug (oil fill pipe) in front of the cam gear, align the timing marks on the harmonic balancer, mark the upper IP gear with chalk, then crank the engine for a little bit, align the timing marks again and see if the timing gear agrees of course the timing marks...
What I meant was the shaft seized???
If it was it is very likely the key in the lower IP drive gear has sheared and the IP is ether not turning or turning too slow because it is slipping as it tries to build pressure and of course it would be out of time.
This would be logical that it could make...
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