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When you say "12V ignition trigger" do you mean switched 12V power? Most likely it would work on switched power unless it has some programmable perimeters, in that case you would likely lose the programming. Your R1 should have a dual voltage 200A alt so you could connect the 14V stud from the...

You still have not said if you have a working trans light, this is VERY important, being able to see a trans light and then being able to read codes is extremely important to keep you from frying your transmission......... Not all issues cause a trans light so being able to read codes any time...

Welcome to the SS forums!!!

I like the Motorola stuff as I have been working with it for over 40 years, being able to control the siren functions (also has PA and external speaker control etc. and a cross band mobile repeater from the control head is handy (external speaker not necessary when equipped with a cross band...

I suspect every state inspection has a requirement for tires, whether it be date and or condition. THANKFULLY Dec 31 is the last day a resident of Texas has to get a motor vehicle inspection, can you say more authority for LE to stop you??

Does the Whelan have provision for a horn button? I normally use a Motorola unit (100/130W is enough for me) I find it handy that the functions can be programmed into the radio control head and the siren unit can be located with the radio drawer unit. Having said that I have some Whelan boxes...

The cooler is big enough on the HMMWV, do you have a working trans light?, have you pulled the codes? There are several issues that can cause the transmission to act differently when warmed up than when cold.

I have seen the needle flutter on a system that worked just fine so I would say that is normal. IIRC it was under a load, be careful and do not press too hard on the brakes as that is how I blew out a hydro-boost one time.

I prefer to use an analog meter (Simpson 260) this way you can watch the voltage and see of there is any "noise" coming out of the potentiometer (TPS) If the voltage rises smoothly (edit while moving the throttle) without any jerky needle movement the pot is good, if the needle jerks around then...

After you connect A and E then you switch on the run switch and read the codes on the trans light. You will find the instructions on page 60 of the supplement.

The way it has been exposed by having no lid and the lines disconnected I would plan on sourcing a new one, pretty important part. Also it is unusual to see an engine with a serpentine belt not to have the 14V tap on the regulator connected, that is a 4 speed truck by model number.

Take a picture of the master cylinder and post a want in the classifieds. A picture here would have helped.

You can change the shift pints somewhat by simply adjusting the TPS position, also you should be looking at the TPS voltage not the resistance.

Welcome to the SS forums!!!!

Do you need the 4L80E supplemental troubleshooting guide? If so I will post it. I understand you are just working from memory so the code you speak of may actually be different :)

What is the unspecified code?

I have not had an accident or ticket in over 20 years and have a perfect credit score, and I live in a low loss county, I am going to give them a call and ask what the heck...

I had 2 HMMWV's with full coverage and it was $1100 a year, both had 25K coverage but that still seems too low for full coverage. I have one now and it is around $600, still 25K coverage.

$51 a year full coverage? that does not sound right. What was your agreed value?

I wonder if you are not having the same issue with the factory run flats as I had with the TWF bead locks. It would make more sense that the bead was "slipping" out from under the run flats influence than deformed due to storage. Did the rim halves go together without much force from the nuts...