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And I did tell the guy the 93 was modified with a more powerful engine as he asked if ether had any modifications. The quote for the two trucks is lower than I am paying Hagerty for just the 1993, again with mods declared and the same coverage. And of course both drivers have "perfect" driving...

I got this quote from JC Taylor, as they said anything in TX over 15 years old qualifies.

Done it many times and never had any issue with it spraying all over the place, it more or less just dribbles out. The quantity of fuel injected at idle is very small.

You loosen the line connection ether at the injector or the IP thus relieving the pressure on that injector until you find the injector causing the issue.

You don;t want to block the injector, just bust one loose at a time until the knock stops

Leaking injectors are not uncommon with the Detroit.

I am curious if the test actually confirm the reg. is bad, at least you should be able to eliminate the alt. Because in the differences in meters you may not get EXACTLY the reading you are looking for but if it is relatively close it is probably OK

I would go through the 200A troubleshooting guide but it does looks like you have a bad regulator

Welcome to the SS forums, resurrecting a 9 year old thread :oops:

Interesting: J C Taylor will ins. vehicles in Texas as new as 15 years so my 2008 should qualify, but they do not have AMG as a listed manufacturer so I have contacted them.

I have ins. through Hagerty but they do not insure any FMV under 20 years old. Actually only looking for liability at this time but would get comp if I had to. There seems to be a large ebb and flow on this so only folks that have received ins in the last year or so

The adjustment is mechanical, using the slots. Not sure why nobody answered the OP. But basically B-A + B-C should roughly = A-C in ohms just like any pot. I have never seen the SQ but it also may have a way to "calibrate" the TPS by programming, the PCS (6L80) controller I am familiar with...

Glad you got her going!

I am pretty sure that would be a no, can't you see the letters? Maybe someone has the pin out as I don't see one right off

Here is the schematic for your R1

If you have run power to the inst. through CB2 then the wire #29C should be hot to the EESS box which should give you a wait light. You can jump S and T at the diag port just to see if the starter activates. If you cannot find any other sign of burnt wires etc. you may need to remove the strain...

Have you removed and inspected the inside EESS box connector and wire connections? make sure to disconnect the batteries first.

So the wife scored some stuff for me at a local auction and one of these items is this cable. It is 20ft long and has what looks like a heavy duty slave connector on one end and what looks like the connector a shelter would have to connect to the power jack behind the right front seat. This make...