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Have you read through the sticky near the top of this forum? https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/lots-of-questions-about-4l80e-swaps.152874/

If you used the correct seal driver it would have driven the seal flush. The shims set the clearance (play) on the pinion bearings and normally should not be disturbed unless rebuilding the hub, removing that flange is not necessary when replacing the seal

You don't need the test cable just read the resistance from pin C to D, the test cable just makes it easier. You can also unplug the J1 connector at the TCM and should have the 3.5-5.2 ohms from K to G on the cable connector.

Welcome to the SS forums!! Have you gone through the troubleshooting for a bad connection? is there any fluid in the transmission harness connector?

The cond. came in today from SECO, I felt special as it was the only item in a full size 18 wheeler with van trailer :LOL:

Oh God, what have I done.....

Well I picked up a 2007 Duramax LBZ today, I have no idea how many miles are on it etc. we will have to wait and see. So next step besides paying for and picking up the truck is to get it running and do an oil sample on the engine if everything seems OK.

Not true, it would be helpful if everyone would actually read the rules as they do change from time to time, everything is spelled out in the rules, the rules specifically state that it is OK to link to active auctions as long as there is no attempt at collusion, whether it is a good idea or not...

I do not see it in the rules, we are governed by the rules. Linking: Please consider the following regarding linking: • Do not link to password protected websites that the rest of the membership cannot access. • Do not link to P0rnographic, obscene, hacking, malware/virus-infested or violent...

That rust around cyl. 5 and 7 looks pretty bad. #1 does not look all that good ether. By the time the rust comes out the bottom of the pistons you have serious problems, IMHO that engine is toast.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/225765893710?hash=item3490b2264e:g:6nsAAOSw6Zhk~MQs&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwAVj%2Fljo%2BBTeF4WZCxRg77%2BjhoyBCwZJJ377PaFWJDvPn2p0Kgyi3vvCebmoOC5HNSRyQ%2BdhwkrzB%2FJxbxphn6Kw7Kfsrtx4Ku1lelxuEv6IzQqkWMjV2UMdjSyTU7WlcuqMhT5Uhk9ejkKr6sJfMpYqzVhZkDW7D7EIXJ9cV%2FBoDG78VZ5vPzT8GE1...

What is the part number for the bottom mount...

Teflon tape is for water pipe, thread sealer is for automotive use.

Well my right condenser should be here Tue. I ordered it in Nov. from SECO and they told me it was in stock :(

Folks that have that system claim it has allot of capacity, even in S FL, which is almost as bad as being in S TX. I have an intercooler so I really don't have room for a cond. up front and as you say not really interested in adding to the stack, time will tell, ask me again in June/July :)

You are probably OK, the trans does run pretty hot, like touching the radiator. If you suspect anything you can see if you have any codes, not all codes set a trans light on when running. Here is the troubleshooting guide in case you do not already have it. Also disconnecting the batteries...

170-190, as a general rule anything over 230 is big trouble. Do you have a working trans light????? if the TC is not going into lockup it will heat quickly, in fact the trans should not go into lockup until it is at operating temp.

It is the one in the picture above, a 1994 M1097A1 the top and rear doors are going on the Duravee. It is in very nice condition, they stripped all the electrics and steering components, why the front wheels look a little wonky. IMHO the Basic or A1 is the way to go because of the 2.56 gears.

Everything but the wipers and fans are 12V, no reason not to, trying to blend the two wiring harnesses would have been a bastardized system to say the least. Re wiring is much better, trying to run the 24V gauges on the Dmax would have been a pain. I have two complete systems one 12V and one 24V...

IIRC there should be a tee in the vent line going to the air filter housing that that hose connects to