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Little off topic, but thank you for posting that picture ... The steel line fastened to the valve cover on mine is open. It turns out PO replaced with a rubber line all the way down, but I've been banging my head on the table looking through fuel injector/return line diagrams and all the TM's...

Just unscrew the current visors and install the 'mirror visor arm' in it's place. I havn't taken a visor apart in some time so I may be overestimating the length of the metal arm ... but it's worth a shot if you have access to some junk visors. I'm just thinking that's what I would do to avoid...

First guess would be front end alignment. How did the wear look on the old tires? Too much toe in can cause a 'hop' as the tires bind and release. Is this with power applied, let off, or all of the above? If it's only under heavy accel it could be spring wrap ... lift blocks in the back...

You know ... how about this ... Take a junk set of sun visors, strip the visor itself. Bend the bar to fit, and mount a couple little round roadster type mirrors on the ends. When you remove your doors, swap your visors for mirrors. If it wants to swing around to much you could mount a...

It sure looks like a civy K-5 with some CUCV parts. Drivers seat looks straight out of a CUCV, but the passenger's is civy. Body panels are civy (could be replacements), no radio bracket holes etc. No dash cut-out. As mentioned it is possible it was purchased and used by uncle sam, but it...

One thing to keep in mind if you do any off-road with the doors off, you may want to look into fab'ing a support to run from the hinges to the door latch. Just a couple tubes to support the body and keep it from flexing. I've seen guys 'wheel' with the doors off, then later they can't get the...

Ha! Just read your reply and thought 'There's a grease fitting!' I jumped up, threw on my boots, and snapped off my laces .... But on the upside ... I do see the grease fitting, funny I never noticed it before, there's actually a hole in the bottom plate for access to it. Upon further...

In the process of working on her I've soaked the pintle pretty well with various penetrating fluid/greases/oils etc. Realy any time I walk by with a can of some-such I stop and go to town on the pintle. I've just come to accept that the top locking mechanism is just always going to be tight...

I was just thinking about this myself... I've got a large heavy duty engine hoist that I'm planning to use. Thinking I should be able to fabricate a 'platform' of sorts to mount above the lift arm then just roll it in and lift it off. I'm still going to need a helper to put the legs back in...

I went with the gatorbacks. One thing I would recommend is get them asap. It looks like no one is carrying them any more and the only way I could find them was ordering online .. (I think from rockauto) and thier stock was noted as basically 'untill what we have is gone'. I followed the advice...

I can't wait till the weather warms up..... Before winter I was averaging 18-20 mpg This was about 50/50 freeway/surface streets, I take the freeway to work(60-65mph), and the slow roads home. Through this winter I've been averaging 16-18 mpg Again mosty 50/50, although I have tried to...

This is a common problem with old chevy's. The solinoid on the starter that engages (pushes) the starter gear out to the flywheel is sticking. Tapping with a hammer frees it and allows it to engage properly. Dirt and corrosion inside the solinoid cylinder is the cause. It is fairly easy to...

My '78 K-5 was "The Beast" Cordova Brown, plaid seats, six headlights, four brake lights, KC's on top, tractor lights out back, 102" CB whips, loudspeakers in the grill. When I first parked my 1009 in the driveway I smiled and thought .. yeah, the beast is back. Unfortunately I just can't...

A common missconception is that electrical systems don't work under water. They do, in fact they work just fine. Computers are another issue, they are far more delicate. The issue comes later, when the systems rapidly corrode from the exposure. The exhaust does not need to be above water...

Grinder/air chisel. Grind an "X" into the head, then chisel them off. You can avoid any damage outside the head diameter.

Well the U-joints are GM 3R series, though every parts store and manufacturer want's to only use thier own part numbers and application list. I wouldn't bother with the local parts stores if you want a quality U-joint. They simply don't carry them any more, after spending a weekend driving...

It's all about money in terms of the computer needed for an electronic trans. If you've got the money to spend you can find a nice stand-alone computer to run it that lets you 'customize' your shifting. Last I looked they go for around a grand. I'm not sure if anyone makes an 'inexpensive'...

I installed four 6" round speakers. I took some plywood and made some boxes for them, covered with some wally world automotive carpeting I had left from my toolbox. I mounted the front set to the kick-panel next to the air vents and the rear set to the side panels just in front of the wheel...

Best to use a TC-W3 rated ashless 2-cycle. I use super tech outboard 2-cycle from wally world. I dump a 16oz bottle in every tank and the engine just loves the stuff. I also use an Opti-lube fuel treatment in the winter (for cetane and anti-gel). I've tried several fuel treatments, but none...

Indeed ... maybe even put a light coating over it to make it look 'redacted', but still visable.