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Also you should run a big ground cable from the winch to ether the shunt in the battery box or the engine block/starter ground stud. The frame in not normally intentionally grounded, if you use the frame for a ground without addressing that you will pass all the winch current though the parking...

Then you drill holes in the air lift brackets if they are not already there.

I just drive the old bolt out with a new one and put the nut on the rear, always on the lift so I don't know if that makes any difference but they drive out fairly easily. The TM calls for a 3/4-10X4.75" of course grade 8 or better. EDIT, I just measured the ones I have in stock for that purpose...

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Or the kit 57K0268, this kit has all the tools from the 0267 kit plus much more, actually I wish I had purchased this kit, even though I already had the engine sling which is a God send for removing engines. Engine Lifting Sling DRF 561 Belt Tension Gauge Runflat Compressor DRF 2688 Drive...

IMHO anyone with a HMMWV should buy the HMMWV tool kit 57K0267, it includes a belt tension gauge along with many of the tools necessary to correctly maintain the vehicle, in the overall view of the HMMWV world they are affordable...

If you buy a truck from a "dealer" it should be a different process than getting a truck from GP and waiting on an SF-97

If you had a rear evap (4 man) it would have a second condenser in the left fender.

Should be removed, you will need some 3/8 and some 5/16 line

Look closely at the other side that is complete, it should be mounted more or less the same way only one side has shorter lines. Did you acquire the correct lines or still trying to jury rig something? Here is another shot of the brake lines, it is kinda backwards as #9 is the left side line and...

As stated above remove the fitting and re-install it after making sure it is clean, no seals but make SURE you back up the black side with a wrench both removing and installing the fitting or you can twist/break the hard line going into the cooler.

That is supposed to swivel, there should be a vent line attached but it would not be sucking air there.

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The easiest way is to find a couple pieces of something 5/8" in dia. to plug the two hoses, just pop the hoses off the heater core fittings, put the plugs in and tighten the clamps back up. It is a little tight to get a piece of 5/8" hose in and circle back to the heater valve from the hard line...

There should not be a significant difference, you still could have other issues like TPS calibration. I would think if you were not shifting into 3rd or 4th you may have a code now, have you read the codes after test driving?

Look around first, you can get the same kit cheaper elsewhere...

Yes but an ohm meter will confirm, according to the standard wire list wire number 810 is part of a traverse/elevation system so I am confused at why you are seeing that number.

To work correctly the wires (75) need to be wired to the light switch, there should be matching number 75 harness wires by the switch. 75A and 75B again does not matter which way the brake switch numbers 75 wires are connected.

IIRC the two individual wires connect ether way to the brake light circuit, the plug with two wires is for the 4L80 controller The brake light wires close (short) when the brake pedal is depressed the 4L80 switch open when the brake pedal is depressed. The brake light switch wires are both...

Unfortunately you have just scratched the surface of how difficult it is to work on a HMMWV. I do not see that box referenced to a HMMWV, not all H1 Hummer parts fit the military trucks, it might but you need to double check before spending money. And like you said it might be a hose.....