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I think that is simply an omission, there are errors in some TMs

See if you have a good flow from the fuel filter drain, it does sound like fuel starvation, less likely but also possible a return problem.

All you should need is power to the TCM and a connected and working light, the transmission could be unplugged for all the TCM would care at that point. It would be handy if you had an LED test light like this one, it shows green for "correct" polarity but more important it also lights up red...

You need to find the reason you have no light before worrying about any sensors or trying to get codes.

You should get a trans light when the run switch is put in run but the engine not running. If you don't it is ether no power to the TCM, a bad trans light/wiring to the light or a bad TCM, that has nothing to do with any of the sensors. There are two sources of power to the TCM one continuous...

You might also try unplugging the cold advance wire (the wire at a 45 deg angle on the rear of the IP housing) The cold advance works by restricting the fuel flow out of the housing (return) thus raising the pressure in the housing causing the timing to advance.

Are you only running it at idle? what I mean does it run OK at half or full throttle? That is called "hunting" and can be an issue with the IP but if you are only running it at idle it could be fuel starvation. EDIT, or possibly a fuel return restriction.

The fan is ether on or off, no "partial" mode, how do you know it is partially engaging? If it is the fan clutch will soon burn up.

I was fortunate to get to visit that wall when it was in S TX.

I would go ahead and wire up the switch, easier for testing than hooking up a jumper every time you test

Section 12 has the docs you need to troubleshoot the winch.

I just put the DuraVee a 93 M998 up on the lift to install a front mount 12K MileMarker hydraulic winch on a modified rear mount and got a good look around. As the TM states the rear bolts are 3/4-10X4.75" so you will need to get some 5" bolts as there just would not be enough threads out of the...

There is also a thermal switch on the green line that could be bad.

The pictorial does not match the schematic (third attachment), the pictorial shows the coils for the solenoids in parallel, the schematic shows them in series (12V coils) If it is wired as in the picture make sure you have ground wires going to both the #1 and #4 solenoids second small...

Everyone that owns a Humvee would benefit by reading the operator TM. https://image.nsnlookup.com/equipment-intelligence/land/hmmwv/technical-manual/tm-9-2320-280-10/tm-9-2320-280-10.pdf One more thing I love about the DuraVee, computerized shift on the fly transfer case ;)

Are you looking for that body panel?

Unfortunately you cannot replace just the heater core without removing the housing, in fact in service there is only a complete housing with core, the core itself is not replaced on its own. The bad part is you will likely tear some of the old heater vent hoses in the process as they are...

Oh yes, I forgot. Do not tighten any suspension bushing bolt until the entire weight is back on the suspension, tightening the bolts when the suspension is hanging free is a mistake, it puts the bushings in a bind under normal loading which will make the ride much stiffer and drastically shorten...

All the "programming" is in the EPROM, you can try switching in your original one, if there is something wrong with it you will get a DTC-51

There is no user programming for that TCM I could be a wiring issue on #83 or the old TCM fried the solenoid The #85 could also be a wiring issue, as bad sensor or the transmission is slipping. Also check to see if there is any fluid in the main harness connector at the trans. Otherwise the...