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He is correct that the normal failure of a head gasket generally has coolant getting into the oil or both, but combustion gasses can get into the coolant from a head gasket failure, I don't think it could contaminate the coolant as much as you describe without being obvious, did you ever look...

Does he see what he thinks is a crack? if so where?

Maybe someone else has had this experience, all I can suggest is have him inspect the cylinders very carefully, have the heads magnifluxed for cracks and have the head gasket surfaces checked to see if they are true, if nothing is found then have him reassemble it and see, not all head gasket...

The GM 6.5 was bad about having cracked cylinder walls, it is said the tooling that machined the piston coolers nicked the bottom of the cylinders of blocks that had a significant core shift, (this would lead to a crack in that cylinder wall) many were the #8 cylinder, so it could be diesel...

The SBC and the BBC has the same setup, only they have a threaded hole in the front of the block where you can pull the short bolt and carefully install a longer bolt before pulling the pump to gently "jam" the pump rod so it does not fall out of place while the pump is installed.

The M1097A1 helmet top I picked up a couple weeks ago had the front half shafts removed, so I knocked the hub ends off of a couple 7K shafts and installed them to seal the hubs. I had picked up the missing access plugs from HPG along with a bunch of small parts to install the A/C on the DuraVee...

If you did not pull the plate behind the pump and grease the pump rod so it would stay out of the way , the pump rod is now broken. Yes there are check valves on the fuel lines coming and gong to the tank they should be removed, both these issues are discussed quite often here. EDIT, most just...

Here are the resources you need to find the part numbers you need, again TM 9-2320-280-24P-1, Start at figure 162, numbers 23 and 25 is the right rear brake line, you will also probably need some other parts also depending on what is missing Here is the link to the TMs...

I took the Duravee to a local tire shop a couple weeks ago to get one of the tires balanced, I told them repeatedly 110ftlb I watched the shop owner install the wheel with an electric impact, then one of the hands walked over and torqued the nuts, only I could tell he did not advance the nuts...

Always use a torque wrench on all of the fasteners on the wheels, half shafts and other drive line components. The lug nuts on the M1097A1 I just bought require a 24" breaker bar with a 36" cheater pipe to bust loose, a real moron was working on that truck! I have yet to remove a lug nut that...

It's over 20 years old, stuff breaks, I would suspect the gauge but I certainly could be wrong. The temp sensor, an RTD ( resistance temperature detector) is a pretty simple device.

No reason the re-invent the wheel, only two components to deal with and the next guy will appreciate it being stock, at least I would, does it start out indicating cold and then go to maxed out? Are all the other gauges acting normally? I think CAMO has measured the curve on that sending unit...

I have Treadwright tires on my M998, (The Detroit) they did great until I put the 6L80 6 speed and GEP TD in and could easily cruise at 75MPH, now they seem to be not so round, not really noticeable at 65MPH :cool: But that will be something the next owner can deal with... They wear like iron...

Also do you have a 100A or a 200A alternator? Ether way the N3135 will work, the N3119 is only for the 100A alt, the N3135 will work on ether the 100 or 200A

Have you checked to see if the alternator is getting 24V to the IGN. terminal?

I don't but it's just a personal decision, sometimes the washer expands and tries to push out from under the nut, I am still in shock at how good the shaft looks. How does the pulley fit without the key in it?? any slop?

That is called afterglow it should stop 2-3min after startup, you can generally see it on the volt meter, the needle will swing back and forth, that is a good thing, means your PCB is working. It would not be uncommon to see 230deg on a HMMWV the gauges are also not known for their accuracy...

Is the fan coming on? at speed you would know, they make allot of noise, to test you can unplug the TDM module and the fan will run all the time so you could test if that helps.

If it were me I would drop the pan with the intention of changing the fluid and filter, try not to disturb the sediment in the bottom of the pan so I could inspect it and I would pull the fill plug on the transfer case to see if it was over full if not done already, if it is over full it...

Also you did check the trans fluid level with it running and after cycling it through forward and reverse yes?