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I think what the OP is saying is the transmission is slipping to the point it will only move the vehicle in low range because of the ratio it makes it easier to move the vehicle, does not sound good, what does the trans fluid look like bright shinny red? As others have said inspect all the half...

You can buy a reman TCM and you will need to get an EPROM as the PCS does not have one, Eastern Surplus has them pretty cheap

The issue as with many electronic boards is finding the documentation and then building a test jig to simulate every input and output to verify problems/operation, which would be the "correct" way to do it. The board is not potted so one can simply clean and look for burned and defective...

Well it sounds like you are getting ahead on this, the only shortcut you took was not explaining what you had done so far, helping each other is what the forums are all about. Since you have so many issues you may want to convert one of your posts to say (getting my M1097A2 up and running)...

You will find the information you need in the TMs. not on the WWW start with 9-2320-280-24P-1 figure 162 for the rear brake lines. The UOC (used on codes are on page 5 IIRC), every model HMMWV has its own UOC and that is how you get the correct parts.

Test the glow plugs before replacing them, troubleshoot then replace. the glow pugs are very easy to test, ether they show low ohms and are good or they show open and are bad. Buy all electrical parts from a reputable dealer, most if not all electrical parts on the popular auction sites are...

First if the fuel tank cap was missing the very first thing you should have done was pull the fuel tank plug and drain all the fuel out and put in fresh fuel after securing the parts and fixing the fuel tank fill issues. Remove the check valves in the fuel lines in front of the fuel tank...

"87cr250r is of course correct, oil samples should only be taken from engines in running condition and the oil type and miles is known, they are an invaluable tool but not called for in this case, I am sorry if it seemed I was endorsing taking an oil sample at this time.

There is no reason to use the earlier wheels unless you want do do a "correct" early restoration as the 12 bolt wheels with the alignment hole and even 24 bolt wheels are abundant and cheap.

Welcome to the SS forum

Rubbing the wires and mounting issues, if you have the resources you should replace the 400A with the 200A, if not make sure ALL the mounting bolts are tight and in good condition. The engine is mounted "crooked" in the engine bay so the alt not aligning with the body would be normal.

You are lucky you have a turbo engine, the water would have to fill the turbo to the point it passed through the crossover on the turbo outlet before you would be in real trouble, so you have to evaluate at what level the water was in when you found it compared to the level of the turbo outlet...

I think you have that backwards, according to HPG these are the rims the RED O ring fits.

Common issue with the 400A alt.

The M1097A2 UOC is BVY, not on that list.

The reference you posted is for industrial belts, not the same animal as automotive belts, IIRC the HMMWV takes a belt with a top width of 15/32

I think most if not all the aftermarket one wire 24V Delco alternators are simply converted 12v units, these run a high field current and eventually burn out the regulator leading to ether no charge or excessive charging.

I not sure what you mean by profile, I have never installed an aftermarket alternator in HMMWV nor would I, the 60A was a very poor alternator, I would and have converted to the 200A dual voltage alternator.

That is very common for 1 wire alternators, they put a small drain on the batteries all the time to have a small amount of field magnetism, it is sometimes not enough to self excite the alternator at idle, it also will drain the batteries over time so I no longer use them on my farm equipment, I...

It also looks like you have a pulley for belts that are much wider than the HMMWV uses.