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Put your hand on the Cadillac valve and see if you can "feel" it when the noise appears, they are known to make noise but usually the noise changes when the valve status changes. You can also use a screwdriver to your ear touching the other end to the brake booster, Cadillac valve etc.

Looking at the schematic it looks like at least one set of condenser fans would cycle with the compressor if ether the temp was too cold or the low pressure switch kicked in, if the high pressure switch was activated only the compressor would cycle, this would indicate ether the system was over...

And the annoying sound did not change?

Unplug the time delay module from the Cadillac valve and see if the sound changes.

Welcome to the SS forum!!

The 200A is a much better alt and you balance the voltage on the batteries, If you can find a good alt, complete install kits are common and reasonably cheap.

That is a little too high, 28.5 MAX would be much better, sounds like the reg in that 60A is going south, the regulation usually get worse the hotter the alt gets, like on the road so you are likely spiking much higher at times. This is a common issue with the 60A alt.

No I would monitor the 24V output of the alt to ground or the voltage from the battery 24V post to ground. Have you ever measured the alt output voltage? if so what was it while the engine is running? If you are monitoring the battery voltage and it is steady when the lights are acting up you...

Have you monitored it while driving?

I would put a volt meter on this thing!!!!!!!!!!, you are blowing lights, that is a bad sign. Off hand I would say you have a 60A alt that has gone wonky

I am sorry if I was a little rough but half shaft installation is one of the maintenance items that require very close attention. Using the correct hardware and the correct thread locker, clean threads and careful installation and torquing are absolutely essential. Other than that if you have...

First there should be no possibility of over tightening any of those bolts, if you did not use a torque wrench then shame on you as you may have damaged the threads in the flanges and the threads in the half shaft. or you may have under torqued them and you will have major damage and trouble...

That is not likely, if so the CV joints would heat up real quickly, 122 deg at the flanges is nothing, check it again after driving for a couple hours using the brakes They would not be noisy until they got real hot if they had no grease they would be hotter than the flanges. Did you use new...

There is a low pressure switch on the compressor suction side that would cycle the compressor off early if the freon charge is low, there is also a thermostatic switch in the front evap in case it gets too cold which does not seem to be your issue, are you sure you have a full freon charge? Also...

Looks like AMG is using social media to promote themselves, the 2nd vid is old news about the upgrades from the 1000 series to the 1100 series. actually most of it is old news, just newly promoted on you-tube.

There are two circuit breakers behind the inst. cluster, if not pulling more than 5A or so you can tap into wire tagged 27D That is a switched power source from the EESS box and is protected by the breaker BUT the breaker is large enough to fry the small wire you will be using for the LED...

This has been added to the TM sticky

The box the TCM is in is not know for it great ability to keep out moisture/water

Yes, you should make sure the problem is not between J1 and the TCM. Actually by now you should have checked/re-seated those connectors.

Welcome to the forum!! Before you condemn the tank/lines remove the check valves (2) in the fuel lines directly in front of the tank, these get stuck and prevent fuel flow. Most just remove them and replace with a single piece of hose per valve (they are mounted inline with two short hoses ea...