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Actually it does, if you trace 6A back it goes directly to the +24V battery terminal, so then 81B is hot, 7A goes to the battery negative (ground) so then 3D is ground, that leaves the only choice for 74 being the starter "start" signal from the run switch, 74A goes to the start switch and 74b...

Retiredwarhorses Is familiar with the 400A setup, I tagged him so hopefully he will jump in with the information you need. Does your alternator have a small solid pulley or an overrunning clutch (pulley will turn freely in one direction)

I am not sure what you are asking, you have the schematic and the wires are still intact even thought hey have no insulation, just repair them one at a time.

Welcome to the forum!!

One way, I'm sure others have figured out ways

You do realize they expand at speed, especially the softer universal ones, no worry about water or dust, if there is any leakage at the large end all the grease will sling out and they will fry.

I do not see how it would try to turn the other direction, but seizing up would just be like having a solid pulley, the problem would be if it did not lock up and slipped, then it would generate allot of heat and ether burn the belt or maybe come apart. But I have no idea if that has happened...

Here is another pic or two of the same vehicle. OK now I see you zoomed in on the first pic.

Nice pictures. Mine never got the break away weapons mount as it still had the original aluminum roof, 16 were sent to Nevada to patrol the Nuclear Test Facility. These were operated as far as I can ascertain by private security contractors, there were some mounting holes in the roof that match...

If I had one of the 200A alternators with the overrunning clutch, for that small amount of money one would for sure be in my spares box.

At $60-70 shipped a new filter is cheap insurance. https://secoparts.net/products/m998-hmmwv-hummer-h1-air-filter-element-humvee-pn-12342870-nsn-2940-01-188-3776

If you use some imagination you can move the alternator back one groove width, use three belts on the PS/ALT freeing up two grooves on the crank pulley. The PS pump will tend to squeal a little if the steering is pressed against the stops. This will also reduce the leverage of the PS/ALT belt...

I would suggest at least temporarily installing a boost gauge, I have never driven my truck with the doghouse off so I cannot advise on when it opens up. You do not want to boost more than about 10-12 psi and on this turbo never over 13-14Psi, at about 15PSI it will surge and that can over speed...

Given the choice I would always pick the manufacturers serial number as that is what is usually specified by various state agencies and you can't go wrong there, I doubt a state inspector/bureaucracy cares what the USMC does or what GP says. If that is what GP saddled me with I of course would...

I am 90% sure that is a 6.2L, (looking at the water crossover) better than an early 6.5L but if they had changed the engine in 2004 it would most likely have been a GEP. A pic of the back of the engine with the doghouse removed would confirm. Pretty cool having one of the first full year of...

Make sure to check all the hubs and diffs for contamination.

YES, you are correct! for some reason I was adding a zero, second year of production

Modification Work Order. You can Google the numbers MWO 9-2320-280-20-1 Add power steering cooler MWO 9-2320-280-35-1 relocate parking brake (from drive shaft to rear calipers) MWO 9-2320-280-35-2 3 point seat belts I think in this case overhauled my be an overstatement, most likely...

According to the serial number it is a 1989 or 1990, you should look up the MWO numbers to see what they upgraded, the parking brake would be one. EDIT, I was wrong it is a 1986

What NDT said, whoever inspects it will use the serial number so 255807