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This is some of the information passed on to me on my VRM5080 group, I have two comprehensive manual (I hope, over 800 pages) coming from England. "The ATU connector pinout is A CLOCK B SILENT C 24V ATU D FMD (Frequency / Mode Data) E 0V F PTT3 G FE (I think this is a word sync for the serial...

Also if anyone knows where the mounting bases can be found, I need two. I am considering just bolting the case to the radio shelf, all solid state shock mounts should not be needed, certainly would make it difficult to steal.

I don't know, the example had a serial number of 4, might be rather rare.

I don't think the ARFAT is necessary with the 5080. If you have some documentation that says otherwise I would love to have it as information on the TUAAM is hard to come by.

You can pull the IGN lead off of the regulator with the truck not running.

Just keep an eye one it (like I need to say that) it may fail when it gets really warmed up.

looking into this brings up the question about TCM compatibility, it would really help if some folks would give me the part number on their TCM itself so I can do more research.

So if you drive it with the old TCM in it, it stays in limp mode and does not throw any codes when the pins are shorted together? I have no idea weather the modus is/can work properly with the setup you have and no ECM.

The TCM itself is the same as used in the civy vehicles, over 1000 for sale now on Flebay, again I would look for the hardware number as I showed in an example above to see if there are any with the same number first. (search for the number on your TCM, not the eprom)

Again what code/codes is the TCM throwing?

Good example, even when looking at the TCM the RPM comes from the ECM which again is not present, I do not think a scanning tool would be of much use.

As I said before if I suspected a TCM failure I would buy a couple off of Fleabay, I see tons of them for $20 shipped. I would try them as is and then if it did not shift correctly I would swap the eprom. It would not surprise me that the Live data would be all screwed up because allot of the...

What codes are you pulling from the old TCM?

All the 6.5L engines are the same, there are not two different heads/blocks.

Nice work! Did the OEM gasket have a number?? If you are thinking of raising the boost .010 over may not be a bad idea.

I am assuming you are talking about the cold advance switch, not the cold advance solenoid in the IP, there are more than one component in the cold advance system. If you are talking about the switch it matters not which way it is plugged in.

I think you are probably OK at 2.5 ohms, probably a bad regulator. Many of the digital meters will show .2 ohms or so when the leads are shorted, why I love my old Simpson 260, we both look like crap cuz we have both been around the block a few thousand times but the meter still works perfectly...

It is likely a bad connection/poor ground

It might help if the hole was at 6:00

Yes there is a hole, the outer ring on the charge pump can be turned to line up with the hole, make sure that ring does not come of as the pump vanes are spring loaded. but no it is not tight enough in that hole to hold it in place